Using Silicone and Alternatives in Eyeshadow Formulation, and Preservative Choice

Question

I am formulating an eyeshadow product. I initially planned to use Silicone ingredients:

Dimethicone 3%
Cyclopentasiloxane 3%

Would it be better to switch to using Caprylic/capric triglyceride and Isododecane instead?

Also, regarding the preservative, I was initially using Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) but it had an unpleasant odor. Can I use Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) at approximately 1% instead?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Regarding the use of Silicone in eyeshadow

Hello,

Thank you for your questions regarding the use of Silicones in eyeshadow.

Regarding the use of Silicones like Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane in eyeshadow:

Safety and Irritation: Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane are widely used in cosmetic formulations, including eye products, and are generally considered safe for topical application by regulatory bodies. Irritation is uncommon but can occur in individuals with specific sensitivities, as with any cosmetic ingredient.
Usage Limitations: There are no general strict limitations on their use in eyeshadow formulations from a safety perspective at typical concentrations (like the 3% you mentioned for each). Their inclusion depends on the desired performance characteristics of the eyeshadow.
Brand Formulations (Naked3, Tarte): Some brands may choose to formulate products without silicones due to marketing strategies targeting consumers who prefer "silicone-free" products, or to achieve specific textures or finishes that silicones might not provide. This doesn't necessarily mean silicones are unsafe or unsuitable for eyeshadow; it's a formulation choice based on brand philosophy and product goals. Silicones are commonly used in eyeshadows to improve texture, spreadability, pigment adhesion, and longevity.

Regarding using Caprylic/capric triglyceride and Isododecane as alternatives:

These are also common cosmetic ingredients used as emollients and solvents/carriers.
As the staff mentioned, different emollients provide different skin feels and performance characteristics.
Whether they are "better" than silicones depends entirely on the specific formulation goal and the desired texture and finish of the eyeshadow. They offer different properties compared to Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane.

Regarding the preservative:

Yes, using Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) at approximately 1% is a suitable alternative to Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) for preserving your eyeshadow formulation, especially if you encountered odor issues with Optiphen Plus. Both are considered gentle and effective preservatives for cosmetic use.

We hope this information is helpful for your formulation.