Vitamin A derivatives in Thai cosmetics: Regulations, efficacy, and irritation
Question
What are the regulations, efficacy, and formulation challenges regarding the use of different forms of Vitamin A (Retinaldehyde, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate) in cosmetic products in Thailand, specifically concerning the possibility of importing and using more potent forms?
Answer
Based on the discussion, you are interested in importing more potent forms of Vitamin A, such as Retinaldehyde, for cosmetic use.
The conversation highlights several important points regarding Vitamin A derivatives in Thailand:
- There are four main recognized forms: Retinoic acid (drug, not allowed in cosmetics), Retinal (Retinaldehyde), Retinol, and Retinyl Palmitate.
- Currently, Retinal, Retinol, and Retinyl Palmitate are allowed in cosmetics by the Thai FDA (อ.ย.), but with concentration limits (e.g., Retinyl Palmitate up to 1.00%) and restrictions on making specific claims like treating acne or wrinkles.
- There is a possibility that Retinal and Retinol might be reclassified as drugs in the future.
- A major challenge with more potent forms like Retinol and Retinal is skin irritation and peeling. Even at the maximum permitted concentration, Retinol's efficacy is significantly lower than low-concentration Retinoic acid (a drug).
- Due to the high potential for irritation and the resulting negative user experience (skin peeling), many cosmetic manufacturers choose not to include these ingredients or use them in very low amounts, despite their potential benefits.
Given these regulatory limitations (concentration limits, potential reclassification) and the practical difficulties related to skin irritation, importing and using more potent forms of Vitamin A like Retinaldehyde or higher concentrations of Retinol in cosmetic products in Thailand faces significant challenges.
The team has acknowledged your suggestion and will study the possibility, but it's important to be aware of the current regulatory landscape and the technical difficulties in formulating stable and non-irritating products with these ingredients at effective concentrations allowed for cosmetics.