Vitamin C Concentration in Serum: 20% vs 3-5%

Vitamin C Concentration in Serum: Is 20% Necessary?

Regarding your observation about the 20% Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) concentration in the Vitamin C E Ferulic formula, it is true that this formula is based on a patent by Skinceuticals, a renowned brand for Vitamin C products.

Vitamin C in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid is considered the most effective form for skin care as it can be immediately absorbed and utilized by the skin. However, L-Ascorbic Acid is highly unstable, especially when dissolved in water and exposed to air or light. Using concentrations as high as 15-20% is often found in products aiming for maximum results, such as significant skin brightening, reduction of dark spots, and notable collagen stimulation.

Using a concentration of 3-5% of L-Ascorbic Acid can still provide skin benefits, including antioxidant properties, helping to reduce general wrinkles, and providing a certain level of brightening. However, the effectiveness in achieving very bright skin or reducing prominent dark spots might not be as significant as using higher concentrations.

Formulas using high concentrations of L-Ascorbic Acid require complex formulation to maintain stability, such as adjusting the pH to an appropriate range (generally 2.0-4.0, but FDA requires a minimum pH of 3.5 for topical products) and using stabilizing ingredients like Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid. Additionally, carriers like Ethoxydiglycol may be used to help deliver Vitamin C into the skin more effectively.

Therefore, the original patent formula's use of a high concentration up to 20% and a high amount of Ethoxydiglycol is likely aimed at achieving the maximum efficacy desired by the brand, which may differ from the results obtained with 3-5% concentration. However, the choice of concentration depends on the desired results and the individual skin's tolerance.