Vitamin C + DMAE Serum Formula (No Heat)

I understand your frustration with previous attempts. Creating formulations, especially with multiple active ingredients, can be challenging. The separation issue you experienced with the cream was likely due to the incompatibility of Satin Mousse™ with ingredients like Zinc PCA and DMAE. As the staff mentioned, Light Cream Maker (Sepiplus 400) at a higher concentration would be a better option for a cream base with those ingredients.

However, you're looking for an easier, no-heat formula, perhaps a gel or fast-absorbing liquid, suitable for combination skin and daytime use. This is a great approach.

For creating a Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) serum or liquid that absorbs quickly and helps minimize oxidation (which causes yellowing), the key is using appropriate solvents and controlling the pH. Yellowing of L-Ascorbic Acid is a natural process that occurs upon exposure to air, light, or heat. While antioxidants like Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E help slow this down, they cannot stop it completely. The initial slight yellow tint after mixing could be from Vitamin C starting to oxidize or from the natural color of other ingredients like Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid. It's impossible to determine the exact amount of degradation based on color alone. A dark orange or brown color indicates significant degradation.

Here is a simple, no-heat serum formula for Vitamin C + DMAE, focusing on Vitamin C stability:

• Ingredients:

  • Distilled Water: Adjust to 100%
  • L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): 15%
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 4%
  • Ferulic Acid: 1%
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): 1%
  • Propylene Glycol: 10%
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 10%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1%
  • pH Adjuster (e.g., Lactic Acid Solution or Triethanolamine Solution): As needed to adjust pH

• Mixing Procedure (No Heat):

  1. In beaker 1: Weigh Distilled Water, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, and Ethoxydiglycol. Stir until Disodium EDTA is fully dissolved.
  2. Crucially: Use a pH meter to measure the pH of the mixture in beaker 1. Slowly add the pH adjuster (e.g., Lactic Acid Solution or Triethanolamine Solution) drop by drop, stirring well and measuring the pH again until the pH is in the range of 3.0-3.5.
  3. In beaker 2: Weigh L-Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid. Use a small portion of the Ethoxydiglycol or Propylene Glycol from beaker 1 (deduct this amount first) to help dissolve the Ferulic Acid completely before adding. Then, add the L-Ascorbic Acid and dissolved Ferulic Acid to the pH-adjusted mixture in beaker 1. Stir continuously until the L-Ascorbic Acid is completely dissolved (this may take some time). Check the pH again; it should still be in the 3.0-3.5 range. Adjust if necessary with tiny amounts of pH adjuster.
  4. Add Vitamin E and Phenoxyethanol to the main mixture. Stir until homogeneous.
  5. Check the final pH. It should be between 3.0-3.5.
  6. Immediately package the serum into an opaque, airtight bottle to protect it from light and air.

• Important Notes:

  • This formula will result in a watery serum texture that is fast-absorbing and non-greasy, suitable for combination skin and daytime use.
  • Controlling the pH to be within 3.0-3.5 is critical for the stability and effectiveness of L-Ascorbic Acid.
  • Using opaque packaging and minimizing exposure to air will help slow down oxidation.
  • Even with stabilizing ingredients, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) will naturally degrade over time. Yellowing is a sign of degradation. Store in a cool place and ideally use within a few months (typically 3-6 months if stored properly).

I hope this simpler formula and procedure help you successfully create your Vitamin C + DMAE serum! Please feel free to ask if you have any more questions.