Vitamin C Facial Cleansing Gel Formulation

Asked by: nisa_plastic On: April 23, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like a formulation for a Vitamin C facial cleansing gel, similar to the commonly sold orange-bottled ones. I've used them before and found they make my face feel clean and brighten the skin. Please provide a formulation.

Answer

Vitamin C Facial Cleansing Gel Formulation

Creating a Vitamin C facial cleansing gel requires selecting a stable form of Vitamin C that works well in a water-based cleanser and provides brightening and antioxidant benefits.

While pure L-Ascorbic Acid (like Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Fine)) is highly effective, it is less stable in water and requires a low pH (2.0-4.0), which can be irritating in a cleanser. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP) is more stable but requires an alkaline pH (7-9), also not ideal for skin.

More suitable options for a cleansing gel due to their better stability and more skin-friendly pH ranges include:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, Vitamin C Ethyl Ether): This is a highly stable Vitamin C derivative that dissolves easily in water and works well in formulas with a pH range of 3.5-6.0. It offers excellent brightening and anti-aging effects.
  • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C): This is another stable, water-soluble Vitamin C form. It requires a pH range of 6.5-6.8 for optimal stability and is effective for whitening and as an antioxidant.

For a typical cleansing gel formulation, you would combine:

  1. Water Phase: Purified water, a suitable Vitamin C form (e.g., Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbyl Glucoside), and potentially a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA (especially with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or SAP) to improve stability.
  2. Cleansing Agent: A gentle surfactant or blend of surfactants suitable for facial cleansing.
  3. Gelling Agent: To create the gel texture (e.g., Carbomer, Xanthan Gum).
  4. pH Adjuster: To bring the formula to the optimal pH for the chosen Vitamin C and skin compatibility.
  5. Preservative: To prevent microbial growth.
  6. Optional: Humectants (like Glycerin), soothing agents, fragrance, color.

When formulating, always follow the specific mixing instructions and recommended usage rates for the chosen Vitamin C ingredient to ensure stability and effectiveness.