Vitamin C Serum Formula Review: Stability, Effectiveness, and Moisture

ถามโดย: chinshin9195 เมื่อ: March 16, 2020 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have the following serum formula:

  • Vitamin C Ultra-Fine 15%
  • Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) 2%
  • Ethoxydiglycol 5%
  • Butylene Glycol 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Mandarin Fresh 0.1%
  • Pro Polymer 1%
  • Water 70.9%

I have a few questions about this formula:

  1. Is this formula okay? Can it be mass-produced?
  2. How effective is this formula for skin brightening, reducing dark spots, and acne marks? When can results be seen?
  3. I want to add more moisture as it feels dry when applied. What ingredient should I add?
  4. Do you have any other recommendations?

คำตอบ

Formula Analysis and Recommendations

Thank you for providing your cosmetic formula. It contains several beneficial ingredients, particularly Vitamin C and Vitamin E, known for their antioxidant and skin brightening properties. Let's address your questions:

1. Is this formula okay? Can it be mass-produced?

The formula contains a high concentration (15%) of L-Ascorbic Acid, which is effective for skin brightening. However, L-Ascorbic Acid is highly unstable, especially in water-based formulas like this one (70.9% water). Without careful pH control (ideally between 3.5-4.0) and potentially additional stabilizers, the Vitamin C is likely to oxidize and lose its effectiveness quickly. While the formula is conceptually sound in terms of ingredient function, its stability is a major concern for mass production and ensuring product efficacy over time. Significant formulation adjustments would be needed to make it stable enough for commercial sale.

2. How effective is this formula for skin brightening, reducing dark spots, and acne marks? When can results be seen?

At a 15% concentration, L-Ascorbic Acid has the potential to be very effective for brightening the skin, reducing dark spots, and improving the appearance of acne marks by inhibiting melanin production and promoting collagen synthesis. Vitamin E also acts as an antioxidant, complementing the effects of Vitamin C. If the Vitamin C remains stable and active in the formula, you could potentially start seeing visible improvements in skin tone and dark spots within several weeks to a few months of consistent use. However, as mentioned, the stability issue means the actual effectiveness might be compromised, leading to minimal or no results as the Vitamin C degrades.

3. Want more moisture, doesn't feel dry. What to add?

The current formula relies on glycols (Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol) for some hydration. To significantly boost moisture and prevent a dry feeling, you can add humectants. Good options include:

  • Glycerin: A highly effective and common humectant that draws water into the skin.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (or Sodium Hyaluronate/Super-HYA): Excellent for hydration, holding many times its weight in water.

Adding 1-5% Glycerin or 0.1-0.5% Hyaluronic Acid could significantly improve the moisturizing feel of the serum.

4. Any other recommendations?

The most critical recommendation is to address the stability of the L-Ascorbic Acid. To improve stability and ensure the formula remains effective:

  • Adjust pH: Bring the pH down to the optimal range for L-Ascorbic Acid (3.5-4.0). This will require adding an acid (like Citric Acid) and potentially a buffer system.
  • Add Stabilizers: Consider adding Ferulic Acid, which is known to help stabilize Vitamin C and enhance its antioxidant properties.
  • Consider Alternative Vitamin C Forms: If stabilizing L-Ascorbic Acid proves too challenging in this base, you could explore more stable derivatives like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbyl Glucoside, although their efficacy might differ.
  • Packaging: Use opaque, air-restrictive packaging (like a dark glass bottle with a dropper or an airless pump) to protect the formula from light and air.
  • Preservation: While Phenoxyethanol is included, it's wise to perform a challenge test to confirm the preservative system is effective against a broad range of microorganisms for mass production.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Pure-Ferulic Acid™
Pure-Ferulic Acid™
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Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
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Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
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Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
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Butylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
เครื่องสำอาง
Mandarin Freshy
Mandarin Freshy
Fragrance/Flavor
Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA)
Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA)
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