Vitamin C Serum Formulation for Ionto Treatment: Ingredient and pH Questions

Question

I am developing a Vitamin C serum formula for single-use ionto treatment. My current formula includes:

Water (rest)
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) 20%
Pro Polymer 1.5%
EDTA 0.2%
Polysorbate 1%
Butylene Glycol (as a carrier)

I have the following questions:

Is Polysorbate 1% necessary in this formula?
Is Butylene Glycol suitable as a carrier, or are there better alternatives?
With 20% Ascorbic Acid, the pH will be very low. How can I ensure Pro Polymer functions correctly in this low pH environment?
Should I add other antioxidants like Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid to this formula?
Can I include Glutathione in this formula? If so, how?

Please provide guidance on adjusting the formula and addressing these concerns for a stable and effective single-use ionto serum.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Regarding your Vitamin C serum formula for single-use ionto treatment:

Based on your formula and the staff's advice:

Please remove Polysorbate 1% as it is not necessary for this formulation.
For the solvent/carrier, consider using Ethoxydiglycol (Product ID 137) instead of Butylene Glycol (Product ID 320). Ethoxydiglycol is recommended for its better penetration ability due to its smaller molecule size.
Your formula includes Ascorbic Acid (Product ID 134) at 20%, Pro Polymer (Product ID 234) at 1.5%, and EDTA (Product ID 184) at 0.2%, with the rest being water.
It is crucial to check the pH after dissolving the Ascorbic Acid in water. Pro Polymer works best in a pH range of 2-9. Since a 20% Ascorbic Acid solution can have a very low pH (below 2), you might need to adjust the pH slightly upwards (above 2) using a small amount of Triethanolamine (Product ID 139) to ensure the Pro Polymer can properly thicken the solution into a gel.

Regarding your questions about other ingredients:

Antioxidants: Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) itself is a powerful antioxidant. For a single-use formula, the primary concern of product oxidation during storage is minimal. While adding other antioxidants like Vitamin E or Ferulic Acid can offer synergistic benefits and enhance the overall antioxidant protection, it is not strictly necessary for the stability of a formula intended for immediate, single use.
Glutathione: You can include Glutathione (Product ID 225) in the formula. Glutathione is also an antioxidant and is known for its skin brightening properties. It can work well in combination with Vitamin C. Its inclusion depends on your desired effects and ensuring compatibility within the formula.

In summary, the staff's recommendations to remove Polysorbate and consider Ethoxydiglycol are valid. Pay close attention to the pH after adding Ascorbic Acid and adjust with Triethanolamine if needed for the Pro Polymer to function. Adding Glutathione is an option if you wish to incorporate its benefits.