Formulation Advice for Vitamin C Serum

Here is some advice regarding your Vitamin C serum formulation:

1. Adding Phospholipids for Absorption: While phospholipids are known for their ability to enhance delivery and absorption of active ingredients, the effectiveness depends heavily on the specific phospholipid used and the overall formulation. In your current formula, which is primarily a gel thickened by gums (Pectin, Xanthan, Iota Carrageenan) with an oil phase, incorporating phospholipids effectively might require specific formulation techniques, potentially involving liposomes or other delivery systems. Without specific phospholipid product information, it's difficult to give precise usage techniques. Generally, they are incorporated into the water or oil phase depending on their type and then processed appropriately (e.g., sonication) to form desired structures.

2. Need for Emulsifier: Yes, you will definitely need an emulsifier. Your formula contains both a water phase (deionized water, thickeners, water-soluble actives) and an oil phase (Sunflower Seed Oil, Sacha Inchi Oil, dl-alpha tocopherol, Perfect-C™). Gums like Pectin, Xanthan, and Iota Carrageenan are water-phase thickeners and cannot create a stable mixture of oil and water. An emulsifier is essential to bind the oil and water phases together and prevent separation, creating a stable serum or lotion texture.

3. Disodium EDTA with Perfect-C™: Yes, it is recommended to include Disodium EDTA in your formula when using Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), especially since your formula contains a water phase. According to the information for Perfect-C™, adding 0.2% Disodium EDTA is advised if water is present in the formula. It helps to chelate metal ions in the water that could potentially degrade the Vitamin C, thus helping to maintain the stability of the Perfect-C™.

4. Recommendations for Fast Absorption: Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) itself is an oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative known for its good skin absorption. To enhance the overall fast-absorbing feel of the serum, consider the following:

   • Emulsifier Choice: Select a light, fast-breaking emulsifier that doesn't leave a heavy or greasy feel on the skin.
   • Oil Phase: While Sunflower Seed Oil and Sacha Inchi Oil are relatively light, the total oil percentage (10%) and the choice of emulsifier will significantly impact the final skin feel and absorption speed.
   • Texture: The combination of Pectin, Xanthan, and Iota Carrageenan can create various textures from gel to thicker serum. Adjusting the ratios and total percentage of thickeners can influence spreadability and perceived absorption speed. A lighter gel-serum texture generally feels faster absorbing than a thick cream.

In summary, you will need an emulsifier to combine your oil and water phases. Adding Disodium EDTA is recommended for the stability of Perfect-C™. While phospholipids can aid absorption, their effective incorporation requires specific techniques, and Perfect-C™ itself already offers good absorption due to its oil-soluble nature. Adjusting your emulsifier and thickener system can help achieve a faster-absorbing texture.