Water-Based Gel Serum for Clogged Pores and Brightening (Combination/Acne-Prone Skin)

Asked by: siwongkorn On: June 23, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have formulated a serum for combination skin prone to clogged pores, aiming for skin brightening. The current formula uses a Silky Serum Base and includes oils like Rosehip oil and Vitamin E oil, along with a high number of active ingredients such as Azelaic Acid 10%, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) 2%, White Egg Enzyme 5%, N-acetyl Glucosamine, Witch Hazel, Allantoin, and Ethoxydiglycol.

However, I've been advised that the formula is too complex and the oil/silicone base is not suitable for skin prone to clogged pores.

Could you provide guidance on adjusting this formulation? Specifically, I need advice on:

  • Transitioning to a water-based gel formula suitable for combination/acne-prone skin.
  • Which of the active ingredients (Azelaic Acid 10%, Safe-B3 2%, White Egg Enzyme 5%, N-acetyl Glucosamine, Witch Hazel, Allantoin, Ethoxydiglycol) are suitable for a water-based gel and should be kept?
  • Confirming the need for a preservative in a water-based formula and recommending suitable options.
  • Providing a simplified example formula for a water-based gel serum targeting clogged pores and brightening.

Answer

Formulation Feedback and Recommendations

Based on your formula and the feedback received, the original formulation is indeed quite complex and contains ingredients that may not be ideal for combination skin prone to clogged pores. The silicone base and oils, as pointed out, can contribute to pore blockage.

To address clogged pores and brighten skin tone effectively while being suitable for combination skin, a simpler, water-based gel formulation is recommended.

Original Formula Assessment

Your original formula includes a high number of active ingredients and uses a Silky Serum Base and Rosehip oil, which are generally not recommended for skin prone to clogged pores due to their texture and potential to feel heavy. The staff's feedback aligns with this assessment.

Recommended Approach

A water-based gel serum is a much better choice for combination and acne-prone skin. It provides hydration without the heaviness of oils or silicones.

  • Base: Replace the Silky Serum Base and oils with a water-based gel system. As recommended by the staff, Pro Polymer is an excellent choice for creating a clear, light gel texture.
  • Active Ingredients: Focus on key ingredients known for addressing clogged pores, promoting cell turnover, and brightening the skin.

    • Azelaic Acid: You included this at 10%, which is a good concentration for tackling clogged pores, reducing redness, and improving skin tone. Keep this ingredient.
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Your formula includes Safe-B3 at 2%. Niacinamide is beneficial for improving skin barrier function, reducing inflammation, and helping with skin tone. You can keep this ingredient, potentially increasing it slightly (up to 4-5%) for enhanced brightening benefits if your skin tolerates it.
    • White Egg Enzyme: This ingredient can help with gentle exfoliation, which is beneficial for unclogging pores and improving skin texture. It can be included.
    • N-acetyl Glucosamine: If your "N-acetyl" refers to N-acetyl Glucosamine (like GlucoBright), this is a great ingredient for brightening and can work synergistically with Niacinamide.
    • Witch Hazel and Allantoin: These can provide soothing benefits and can be included in a water-based formula.
    • Ethoxydiglycol: This can be used as a solvent to help incorporate some active ingredients into the water base.
  • Oils: As recommended, remove Rosehip oil and Vitamin E oil (use water-soluble Vitamin E if desired, though Vitamin B3 and other antioxidants may suffice).

Preservative

Yes, a preservative is absolutely necessary for any water-based formulation to prevent bacterial and fungal growth, ensuring the product remains safe to use. You must add a suitable preservative.

Recommended preservatives include:

  • Mild Preserved Eco: A popular broad-spectrum preservative blend.
  • PE 1090 Preservative: Another effective broad-spectrum option.

Choose one preservative system and follow its recommended usage rate.

Simplified Example Formula (Water-Based Gel)

This is a simplified example focusing on your goals. Adjust percentages based on raw material supplier recommendations and your skin's tolerance.

  • Water or Hydrosol (e.g., Witch Hazel): Up to 100%
  • Pro Polymer: 0.2 - 0.5% (adjust to achieve desired gel thickness)
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 5-10% (adjust based on solubility needs of actives)
  • Azelaic Acid: 10%
  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 4-5%
  • White Egg Enzyme: 5%
  • Allantoin: 0.1-0.5%
  • GlucoBright (N-acetyl Glucosamine): 2-4% (if desired for brightening)
  • Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco or PE 1090): Follow supplier's recommended usage rate.

Important: Always make a small test batch first and patch test on your skin before applying to your face.