Water-Based Serum Formulation using Atelocollagen, VoluLift™, and Niacinamide: Addressing Solubilization
คำถาม
I am developing a water-based serum formulation utilizing three key active ingredients: Atelocollagen, VoluLift™ (Palmitoyl Isoleucine), and Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide).
Since VoluLift™ is oil-dispersible while the others are water-soluble, what ingredients and percentages should I use to create a well-balanced, stable, and clear water-based serum? Specifically, I require suggestions for:
- A suitable solubilizer to incorporate VoluLift™ into the water phase.
- Recommended percentages for all active ingredients and base components (humectants, thickeners, preservative).
- Detailed mixing instructions to ensure stability and proper incorporation of all components, especially considering the temperature sensitivity of Atelocollagen.
คำตอบ
Based on your request to create a water-based serum using Atelocollagen (ID: 33146), VoluLift™ (ID: 10429), and Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) (ID: 74), here is a suggested formulation and mixing guide.
The primary challenge is that VoluLift™ is oil-dispersible, while the other ingredients are water-soluble and you desire a water-based serum. The solution is to use a solubilizer to incorporate the VoluLift™ into the water phase, creating a clear or translucent serum.
Suggested Water-Based Serum Formulation
| Phase | Ingredient | Product ID | % by Weight | Function | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled Water | N/A | 84.6% | Solvent | |
| A | Propanediol | 1337 | 5.0% | Humectant/Solvent | Aids in dissolving actives and provides moisture. |
| A | Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) | 74 | 3.0% | Active | Brightening, barrier repair. Use rate up to 10%. |
| A | Xanthan Gum (clear gel type) | 2055 | 0.3% | Thickener | Provides a light, non-sticky serum texture. |
| B | PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil | 738 | 5.0% | Solubilizer | Used to incorporate the oil-dispersible VoluLift™. |
| B | VoluLift™ (Palmitoyl Isoleucine) | 10429 | 1.0% | Active | Recommended use rate for plumping and anti-aging. |
| C | Broad Spectrum Preservative | N/A | 1.0% | Protection | Crucial for water-based formulas. Choose a system compatible with Niacinamide (pH 5.5-6.5). |
| C | Atelocollagen | 33146 | 0.1% | Active | Native collagen for plumping. Recommended use rate. |
| Total | 100.0% |
Mixing Instructions
Prepare Phase A (Water Phase):
- In the water, dissolve Propanediol and Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide).
- Slowly sprinkle the Xanthan Gum onto the surface while stirring vigorously (or use a high-shear mixer) until fully hydrated and a clear gel forms.
Prepare Phase B (Solubilizer Phase):
- In a separate container, mix PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and VoluLift™. Stir until the VoluLift™ powder is fully dispersed and solubilized.
Combine Phases:
- Slowly add Phase B into Phase A while stirring until the mixture is clear and uniform.
Add Final Actives (Phase C):
- Add your chosen Broad Spectrum Preservative and mix well.
- CRITICAL STEP: Ensure the temperature of the serum is below 30°C before adding Atelocollagen.
- Add the Atelocollagen and stir gently until fully dissolved.
Finalize:
- Check and adjust the pH to be between 5.5 and 6.5, which is optimal for Niacinamide and skin compatibility.
- Storage: Due to the nature of Atelocollagen, the finished serum should be stored in the refrigerator (6°C - 8°C).
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Propanediol (1,3-Propanediol) (e.q. Zemea)