Water-based Vitamin C Formulation, Alternatives, and Compatibility

Hello!

Regarding your questions and the previous discussion:

The staff correctly pointed out that the initial formula you provided is not suitable primarily because the Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid Ultra-Fine, ID 134) is unstable in water for extended periods and is incompatible with Safe-B3 (Niacinamide, ID 74).

For a water-based formula intended for both face and body to address tanning, dryness (non-sticky), brightening, and reducing acne marks/redness, you need a stable Vitamin C derivative. Based on the staff's suggestions and compatibility with Niacinamide, suitable options include:

• Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (ID 833): A highly stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative that offers excellent brightening, antioxidant, and collagen-boosting benefits. It's generally well-tolerated and effective for reducing dark spots and improving overall skin tone.
• AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside, ID 265): Another stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative that is gradually converted to L-Ascorbic Acid on the skin. It provides brightening and antioxidant effects and is known for its stability.
• Perfect-C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ID 499): This is an oil-soluble Vitamin C derivative. While very stable and effective for brightening and antioxidant benefits, incorporating it into a water-based gel formula would require an emulsification system, making the formulation more complex. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or AA2G are simpler choices for a water-based gel.

Regarding your question about using Turmeric extract (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids, ID 721) instead of Vitamin C:
Turmeric extract is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can be beneficial for reducing redness, soothing the skin, and offers some degree of brightening by inhibiting tyrosinase. It can definitely be included in your formula and would be helpful for addressing redness and overall skin health. However, its primary benefits and mechanism of action are somewhat different from Vitamin C, especially L-Ascorbic Acid or its potent derivatives like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, which are more directly involved in collagen synthesis and often have stronger documented brightening effects at higher concentrations. So, while Turmeric extract is a great addition for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and some brightening, it doesn't fully replace the role of Vitamin C, particularly if your main goal is significant brightening or collagen support. You could potentially use both ingredients in a formula if compatible.

Regarding combining the formulas: The staff recommended splitting into two formulas, likely because combining all ingredients into one might lead to stability issues, reduced efficacy, or potential irritation due to high concentrations of multiple actives (e.g., Salicylic Acid, BioSulphur from the acne formula with high concentration Vitamin C and Niacinamide from the other formula). It is generally advisable to use targeted treatments separately or create a single, well-balanced formula with compatible ingredients at appropriate concentrations for your specific concerns (acne, brightening, dryness).