Water Essence Formulation Advice

Here is some advice regarding your water essence formulation:

1. Mixing Procedure and Fragrance Separation

The issue with the fragrance separating in your formula is likely due to how it was mixed. Fragrance oils are not water-soluble and require a solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear to disperse properly in a water-based solution.

Correct Mixing Method:

1. Mix the fragrance oil with Flora Solve™ Clear separately. The recommended ratio is 2-5 parts Flora Solve™ Clear to 1 part fragrance. Start with a 2:1 ratio and increase if needed until the fragrance is fully dissolved in the solubilizer. Stir or blend this mixture well.
2. Slowly add this fragrance/solubilizer mixture to the water phase of your formulation while stirring continuously until fully combined and clear.

Do not add water to the fragrance/solubilizer mixture, as this can cause it to turn into a thick gel. Always add the mixture to the water.

2. Faster Skin Absorption

To help the formula absorb into the skin faster, you can add a solvent ingredient. Ingredients like Methylpropanediol or Propanediol (1,3-Propanediol) can act as solvents and enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin.

Consider adding 1-10% of Methylpropanediol or Propanediol (1,3-Propanediol) to your water phase.

3. Non-Greasy Moisturization for Dry Skin

Your current formula already contains Allantoin and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), which contribute to hydration and skin barrier function. To further enhance non-greasy moisture for dry skin, adding Hyaluronic Acid is highly recommended.

Hyaluronic Acid is a powerful humectant that attracts and holds moisture in the skin without feeling heavy or greasy. You can use different molecular weights for layered hydration – for example, a combination of Standard Molecule Hyaluronic Acid and Super Low Molecule Hyaluronic Acid. The Super Low Molecule type penetrates deeper, while the Standard Molecule hydrates the surface.

Alternatively, you could use a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base for ease of formulation.

Add Hyaluronic Acid powder (total 0.1-0.5%) to the water phase and allow it to hydrate fully (this may take several hours or require blending). If using a gel base, simply incorporate it into your formula.

4. Skin Brightening

Your formula already includes Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), which work together to help with skin brightening and reducing dark spots. To further boost the brightening effect, you can add other effective whitening agents.

Consider adding Alpha Arbutin or Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C). Both are known for their skin brightening properties by inhibiting melanin production.

• Alpha Arbutin: Use at 0.2-2% (recommended 2%). Mix into the final product below 30°C with a pH between 3.5-6.5.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G): Use at 2-10%. Mix into water below 50°C and adjust pH to 6.5-6.8 for stability.

Remember to consider the pH requirements of each ingredient when formulating.