Water-in-Oil Cream Formulation and Mixing for Light Texture

Question

I am developing a Water-in-Oil cream formulation for night use, aiming for a light, non-sticky texture that provides moisture retention and gentle exfoliation. I have proposed the following formula and mixing method and would like confirmation and advice on adjusting the texture:

Proposed Formula:

Water-Capsule™ 4%
LipidSoft™ Lite 6%
Water 81%
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 3%
Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract) 1%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose) 3%
Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%
Light Cream Maker™ 1%

Proposed Mixing Method:

Combine the oil phase ingredients: Water-Capsule™, LipidSoft™ Lite, and Bisabolol.
Combine the water phase ingredients: Water, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron Liquid, TreMoisture™, Papaya Enzyme, and Light Cream Maker™. Mix until a gel forms.
Add the oil phase to the water phase all at once (do not add gradually). Slowly mix until combined into a Water-in-Oil cream.

Is this formula and method correct? How can I adjust the mixing speed to achieve a desired thickness, specifically if I want a thicker texture?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the staff's feedback, your revised formula ingredients are compatible for creating a Water-in-Oil cream with a light, hydrating feel as you described. The mixing method you outlined, with the staff's clarification on including Bisabolol in the oil phase and adjusting mixing speed for thickness, is correct.

Here is the confirmed formula and mixing method:

Formula:

Water-Capsule™ 4%
LipidSoft™ Lite 6%
Water 81%
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 3%
Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract) 1%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 2%
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose) 3%
Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%
Light Cream Maker™ 1%

Mixing Method:

Oil Phase: Combine Water-Capsule™, LipidSoft™ Lite, and Bisabolol.
Water Phase: Combine Water, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron Liquid, TreMoisture™, Papaya Enzyme, and Light Cream Maker™. Mix until a gel forms.
Emulsification: Add the oil phase to the water phase all at once. Mix slowly (below 100 rpm) until the mixture is combined into a Water-in-Oil cream. If you desire a thicker texture, you can increase the mixing speed up to 3000 rpm for 5-10 minutes after the initial combining.

This method, using Water-Capsule™ and Light Cream Maker™, is suitable for achieving a light, non-sticky, yet hydrating texture that can provide moisture retention. The Papaya Enzyme will offer gentle exfoliation.