Water-in-Oil EZ Usage, SPF/PA, and Texture of Revised Sunscreen Formula

Question

Based on my revised sunscreen formula, I have the following questions: Regarding the Water-in-Oil EZ emulsifier, the website previously stated it should be used at no more than 1% and cannot be used with Cyclomethicone. Has this information been updated, as the staff recommended increasing the usage percentage? What approximate SPF/PA value does my revised formula achieve? What is the expected texture of my revised formula, specifically regarding thickness and skin adherence?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Answers to your questions:

Regarding the usage of Water-in-Oil EZ, the staff explained that while the website might suggest a maximum of 1%, for formulas with a high oil phase (over 20%), increasing the percentage to 2%-2.5% is recommended to ensure stability and prevent separation. Your revised formula has a significant oil/silicone/powder phase, so the staff's recommendation for a higher percentage is likely for better emulsification stability. You can try adjusting the amount and testing the stability of your specific formula.
Based on the revised formula, the staff believes it should achieve approximately SPF 50 PA+++. This meets your SPF target but is slightly below your desired PA++++.
The staff thinks the revised formula should be acceptable for a non-thick texture that adheres well to the skin. However, adjusting the Water-in-Oil EZ percentage for stability might have a slight impact on the final texture.