Wax Properties and Improving Washability in Formulations

Asked by: deelkung On: November 13, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please explain the properties of different cosmetic waxes like Cera Alba (Beeswax), Synthetic Microcrystalline Wax, Candelilla Wax, and Carnauba Wax, particularly their ease of handling in formulations? Also, how can a wax-based product be formulated to be easily washed off?

Answer

Wax Properties and Washability

The ease of washing off a wax-based product depends primarily on the overall formulation, not just the type of wax used. A formula that incorporates water and an emulsifier to create an emulsion (like water-in-oil or oil-in-water) will be significantly easier to wash off compared to a pure oil or wax base.

Ranking Waxes by Ease of Use (Handling in Formulation)

Based on typical melting points and hardness, here is a general ranking of the waxes you mentioned from easiest to hardest to handle during formulation:

  1. Cera Alba (Beeswax): Relatively low melting point, softer texture, easier to melt and incorporate.
  2. Synthetic Microcrystalline Wax: Properties vary, but cosmetic grades are often manageable.
  3. Candelilla Wax: Higher melting point and harder than beeswax.
  4. Carnauba Wax: Highest melting point and hardest, making it the most challenging to melt and work with.

When melted, waxes behave like oils and are considered part of the oil phase in a formulation.

Making a Wax Formula Easier to Wash Off

To improve washability, you need to create an emulsion by adding water and a suitable emulsifier to your formula. This allows the product to be dispersed in water during washing.

Examples of ingredients that can help create such an emulsion include:

  • Lecithin
  • Sugar Gel (Sucrose Stearate/Palmitate)
  • Polysorbate 20
  • Polysorbate 80

These emulsifiers help bind the oil/wax phase with the water phase. Including a surfactant in the formula also contributes to easier removal with water.

Keep in mind that adding water and emulsifiers to create a more washable formula might reduce the hold or longevity compared to a pure wax/oil product, as the emulsion can be more susceptible to being washed away by sweat or water.