Whitening and Exfoliating Toner Formulations

Asked by: nksniki126 On: February 14, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am requesting two toner formulations:

  1. A Whitening Toner formula (water-based liquid) for overall skin brightening and reducing dark spots.

    • What are the recommended ingredients and their percentages?
    • What are the mixing instructions?
    • What is the ideal final pH range?
  2. An Exfoliating and Brightening Toner formula, building on a base of 4% Glycolic Acid in distilled water.

    • What additional ingredients are recommended to add brightening benefits?
    • What are the recommended percentages for these additional ingredients?
    • What are the mixing instructions for the combined formula?
    • What is the ideal final pH range for an AHA toner?

Also, I would like to know the role of Natural Betaine when used with Glycolic Acid. Does it stop or neutralize the exfoliating action of Glycolic Acid? What is the recommended usage percentage for Natural Betaine in a toner?

Answer

Whitening Toner and Exfoliating Toner Formulas

Based on your request for two toner formulas and the previous discussion, here are recommendations for a whitening toner and an exfoliating/brightening toner.

Regarding the initial list of ingredients you provided, as the staff correctly pointed out, that combination is formulated to create a cream, not a toner, due to the presence of ingredients like Light Cream Maker and mineral oil. The staff provided good suggestions for adjusting that specific cream formula, such as replacing mineral oil with LipidSoft Dry for a lighter feel suitable for slightly oily skin, potentially removing Natto Gum if not needed for texture, and noting that the Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) you listed is primarily for anti-inflammatory benefits, not whitening.

Formula 1: Whitening Toner

This formula is a water-based liquid designed for overall skin brightening and reducing dark spots.

  • Distilled Water: Balance to 100%
  • Niacinamide: 5%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 2%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.8%

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Measure the Distilled Water.
  2. Add Disodium EDTA and stir until fully dissolved.
  3. Add Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, and Tranexamic Acid. Stir well until all powders are completely dissolved. Gentle warming (up to 40°C) can help, but cool before adding the preservative.
  4. Add Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
  5. Check the pH. Ideally between 5.0-6.0. Adjust if necessary.
  6. Pour into a clean bottle.

Formula 2: Exfoliating and Brightening Toner

This formula builds on your current 4% Glycolic Acid toner to add brightening benefits.

  • Distilled Water: Balance to 100% (~93%)
  • Glycolic Acid (100% Powder): 4%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 2%
  • Allantoin: 0.2%
  • Phenoxyethanol: 0.8%

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Measure the Distilled Water.
  2. Carefully add Glycolic Acid powder and stir until fully dissolved.
  3. Add Tranexamic Acid and Allantoin. Stir until dissolved.
  4. Add Phenoxyethanol and stir to combine.
  5. pH for AHA Toner: The pH should be between 3.0 and 4.0 for effective exfoliation. Measure your final mixture and adjust if necessary using a dilute base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution) to bring it into this range. Do NOT go below pH 3.0.
  6. Pour into a clean bottle.

Natural Betaine and Glycolic Acid

Natural Betaine is a humectant and osmoprotectant that helps hydrate the skin and reduce irritation. It does not stop or neutralize the exfoliating action of Glycolic Acid. Glycolic Acid's effectiveness depends on pH.

You can include Natural Betaine in your toner (Formula 2) at 1-5% for added hydration and soothing benefits. Add it to the water phase with other water-soluble ingredients, adjusting the water percentage accordingly.

Always perform a patch test before using a new formulation.