Whitening Day&Night Cream Texture Adjustment and Mixing Procedure

ถามโดย: officialpon เมื่อ: November 21, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have a formula for a "whitening Day&Night Cream (for Normal Skin)" and would like advice on adjusting its texture and the correct mixing procedure.

I want the cream to have a texture that is:

  • Soft
  • Smooth
  • Luxurious feel
  • Fast-absorbing
  • Lightweight

Please advise on how to modify the formula to achieve these desired texture properties and provide the correct mixing order for this type of cream (Oil-in-Water emulsion).

คำตอบ

Subject: Re: Cream Texture Adjustment

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your "whitening Day&Night Cream (for Normal Skin)" formula and asking about the texture.

Based on the ingredients you've listed, the formula includes components known to contribute to a smooth and pleasant texture, such as Cyclomethicone, Shea Butter Oil Light, Natto Gum, and the emulsifiers Light Cream Maker and Satin Mousse. As cosmeceutical7 mentioned, the best approach is to try mixing the formula first to see if the resulting texture meets your expectations for a soft, smooth, luxurious, fast-absorbing, and lightweight feel.

If, after mixing, you find the texture isn't quite what you want, here are some general points to consider for adjustment:

  • For more softness/smoothness/slip: You could potentially slightly increase the percentage of Shea Butter Oil Light or Cyclomethicone within their recommended usage ranges. Cyclomethicone is particularly good for providing a silky, non-greasy slip and a lightweight feel as it evaporates.
  • For adjusting thickness/body: The combination of Light Cream Maker, Satin Mousse, and Natto Gum determines the cream's body. If it feels too thick or heavy, you might slightly reduce the total percentage of these thickeners/emulsifiers (while ensuring stable emulsification). If it's too thin, a slight increase might help. Satin Mousse is specifically designed to give a silky texture.
  • For faster absorption/lighter feel: Ensure the total oil phase isn't too high. Your current oil phase seems reasonable for a light cream. Ingredients like Propylene Glycol and Cyclomethicone help improve spreadability and reduce tackiness, contributing to a lighter feel.

Remember to make small adjustments and test each time.

Regarding the mixing order for this type of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a general guideline is:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: Heat the water. Add water-soluble ingredients that require heating (like Lift-Now). Hydrate Natto Gum according to its specific instructions (sometimes added to cold/warm water before heating). Heat the water phase to the required emulsification temperature (usually 70-80°C).
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase: Combine oil-soluble ingredients and emulsifiers that require heating (Shea Butter Oil Light, Light Cream Maker, Satin Mousse). Heat the oil phase to the same temperature as the water phase. Cyclomethicone is volatile and best added during cooling.
  3. Emulsify: Slowly add the heated oil phase to the heated water phase while mixing with high shear (e.g., homogenizer or high-speed mixer) for several minutes to create the emulsion.
  4. Cooling Phase: Switch to slower mixing and allow the emulsion to cool.
  5. Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: When the temperature drops below 40°C (or as recommended by ingredient suppliers), add heat-sensitive ingredients. This includes GlucoBright, Vitamin B3, Sea Kelp Extract, Activated Resorcinol (likely pre-dissolved in Propylene Glycol), and Cyclomethicone.
  6. Final Steps: Add preservative and fragrance (if any) at the appropriate temperature. Continue mixing until the cream is uniform and cooled to room temperature. Check and adjust pH if necessary.

This is a general guide; always refer to the specific instructions for each raw material, especially the emulsifiers and thickeners.

Hope this helps!

Best regards,
[Your Name/AI]

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