Whitening Formula Review: Questions on Butylene Glycol and Disodium EDTA

Asked by: salitpong_k On: June 22, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Here is a comprehensive whitening formula I am working on:

Formula (Total 100%):

  • Phase A (Water Phase):
    • Water: 71%
    • N-Acetyl-D glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4%
    • Niacinamide: 2%
    • Tranxenamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
    • Trehalose: 1%
    • Glycerin: 2%
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phase B (Oil Phase):
    • Fractional Coconut Oil: 10%
    • Active Resorcinol: 1%
    • MSH White: 2%
    • Bisabolol: 1%
  • Final Addition:
    • Natural Preserve: 0.88%

I have a couple of questions regarding this formula:

  1. Should Butylene Glycol be added to the formula (at 3-5%) to help with absorption?
  2. Regarding Disodium EDTA at 0.2%:
    • Is this percentage based on the amount of water or the total formula?
    • Is its primary purpose to prevent the color change of Active Resorcinol?
    • Can Active Resorcinol be mixed with plant/herb extracts (which may contain electrolytes) when Disodium EDTA is included?

Answer

Subject: Review of Comprehensive Whitening Formula

Here is a review of the comprehensive whitening formula you provided:

Formula Breakdown (Total 100%):

  • Phase A (Water Phase):
    • Water: 71%
    • N-Acetyl-D glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4%
    • Niacinamide: 2%
    • Tranxenamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
    • Trehalose: 1%
    • Glycerin: 2%
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phase B (Oil Phase):
    • Fractional Coconut Oil: 10%
    • Active Resorcinol: 1%
    • MSH White: 2%
    • Bisabolol: 1%
  • Final Addition:

    • Natural Preserve: 0.88% (calculated as 1.25% of the water phase, approx. 0.8875%)
  • Note: The total percentage sums to 98.08%. There might be a slight discrepancy or missing ingredient to reach exactly 100%, but the provided percentages are listed.*

Regarding your specific questions:

  1. Should Butylene Glycol be added for absorption (3-5%)?
    Based on the staff's response, adding Butylene Glycol is not necessary for absorption in this formula because all ingredients are already fully soluble. Adding it would primarily serve to adjust the texture of the product rather than enhancing ingredient delivery.
  2. Is Disodium EDTA 0.2% of the water amount or the formula? Is it to prevent active resorcinol color change?
    As confirmed by the staff, Disodium EDTA should be used at 0.2% of the total formula. Its purpose is indeed to prevent the color change of Activated Resorcinol. The staff clarified that this color change is caused by heavy metals present in the water, not by electrolytes. Disodium EDTA works by chelating (binding to) these heavy metals.
    Furthermore, the staff confirmed that adding Disodium EDTA allows Activated Resorcinol to be mixed with plant/herb extracts (which may contain electrolytes) without causing color change, provided the overall formula's pH is suitable for all ingredients.