Whitening Gel Formula for Oily Skin: Ingredients, Stability, and Suitability

Asked by: jomjai_mt On: May 03, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask if using the following formula will result in a skin gel suitable for oily skin and provide a whitening effect. The formula includes:

  • Water
  • Glycerin
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (4%)
  • Niacinamide (2%)
  • Alpha Arbutin (2%)
  • Squalane (7%)
  • Lecithin
  • Phenoxyethanol SA

Also, what exactly is Phenoxyethanol SA? Is it the same as Phenoxyethanol?

Answer

Regarding the formula you provided for a skin gel:

  • Whitening Effect: The formula includes Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Niacinamide, and Alpha Arbutin, which are well-known active ingredients used for skin whitening and reducing hyperpigmentation. At the concentrations listed (4% MAP, 2% Niacinamide, 2% Alpha Arbutin), these ingredients are typically effective for this purpose. So, yes, the formula contains ingredients that can help with whitening.
  • Suitability for Oily Skin: The formula contains 7% Squalane. Squalane is an emollient (a type of oil) that provides hydration and a smooth feel. While Squalane is considered a lightweight oil and is non-comedogenic for many, a concentration of 7% might feel too heavy or oily for someone with very oily skin. Its suitability depends on the individual's skin type and preference for texture.
  • Phenoxyethanol SA vs. Phenoxyethanol: Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative. "Phenoxyethanol SA" typically refers to a blend containing Phenoxyethanol along with Sorbic Acid (SA) or another organic acid. These blends are used to enhance the preservative efficacy and broaden the spectrum of activity compared to using Phenoxyethanol alone, especially against fungi and yeast. So, no, "Phenoxyethanol SA" is not just pure Phenoxyethanol; it's a specific preservative blend where Phenoxyethanol is one component.
  • Formula Stability: As noted in the previous comment, the stability of this formula is questionable. The formula relies on Lecithin as the primary emulsifier to combine the water phase (Water, Glycerin, actives) with the oil phase (Squalane). Lecithin is a natural emulsifier, but achieving a stable, long-term emulsion or gel with just Lecithin and these components can be challenging without additional stabilizers or a more robust emulsifier system designed for the specific oil load. It is possible the formula could separate over time or under different temperature conditions.