Whitening Ingredient Mechanisms and Combining ODA White Plus & SymWhite

Asked by: thelittledraco On: February 20, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding whitening ingredients, could you please clarify:

  1. Are there any overlaps in the mechanism of action between ODA White Plus and the following ingredients:
    • Lemon Skin
    • Yeast Radiance™
    • MSH White™
    • SymWhite (ChromaWhite™)
  2. If both ODA White Plus and SymWhite (ChromaWhite™) are recommended to be added in the final step of a formulation, does this mean they should be added simultaneously into the base formulation?

Answer

Whitening Ingredient Mechanisms and Usage

Based on the ingredients you listed and our product information, here is a comparison of their mechanisms and how to use ODA White Plus and SymWhite together.

Mechanism Overlap with ODA White Plus

Assuming "ODA White Plus" refers to AEPWhite™ (Aminoethylphosphinic Acid) and "SymWhite" refers to ChromaWhite™ (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate), here's how the mechanisms compare:

  • ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™): Works by stabilizing DOPAchrome, an intermediate step in melanin production, preventing it from turning into melanin. It does not inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme.
  • SymWhite (ChromaWhite™): Works by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme, which is crucial for the initial steps of melanin synthesis.
  • Lemon Skin (Lemon Peel Bioferment): Also works by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme.
  • Yeast Radiance™: Acts as a brightener, focusing on skin radiance rather than directly inhibiting melanin production like traditional whitening agents.
  • MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine): Works by reducing Alpha-MSH, a hormone that stimulates melanin production.

Comparing these to ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™), none of the listed ingredients have the exact same mechanism of action. Lemon Skin and SymWhite (ChromaWhite™) both inhibit tyrosinase, which is a different step in the melanin pathway than where ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™) acts (DOPAchrome stabilization). Yeast Radiance and MSH White have entirely different approaches to improving skin tone.

In fact, ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™) can be used synergistically with tyrosinase inhibitors like SymWhite (ChromaWhite™) or Lemon Skin to achieve a stronger whitening effect because they target different stages of melanin production.

Using ODA White Plus and SymWhite Together

When both ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™) and SymWhite (ChromaWhite™) are recommended to be added in the "final step" of a formulation, it means they should be incorporated after the main emulsion or base is created and has cooled down. This is typically done to protect heat-sensitive ingredients.

  • ODA White Plus (AEPWhite™): Is water-soluble. It should be dissolved in the water phase or a small amount of water and added to the cooled formula.
  • SymWhite (ChromaWhite™): Is oil-soluble. It should be dissolved in the oil phase or a small amount of suitable solvent/oil and added to the cooled formula.

Yes, you can use both in the same formula and add them during the final cooling phase. You would typically prepare each ingredient separately (dissolving AEPWhite™ in water and ChromaWhite™ in oil/solvent) and then add them one by one or together to the cooled base, ensuring proper mixing to disperse them evenly throughout the product.