Whitening Ingredients: Tranexamic Acid and Alpha Arbutin

Both Tranexamic Acid and Alpha Arbutin are popular ingredients used for skin brightening and reducing hyperpigmentation. They work through different mechanisms.

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic Acid, such as Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™), works by inhibiting the plasminogen system, which in turn reduces inflammation and melanin production triggered by UV exposure or other irritants. It is particularly effective for treating melasma and dark spots caused by sun damage.

• Usage Rate: Up to 3% in cosmetic formulations (higher concentrations require drug registration).
• Mixing: Water-soluble, mix into the water phase. The formula pH should be between 3-8.
• Forms: Besides standard Tranexamic Acid, there are enhanced versions like Nano-TXA™ (Tranexamic Acid Nano Emulsion, Penetration Base), which uses nano-emulsion technology for better skin penetration, and TXC™ (Cetyl Tranexamate HCl), a derivative developed for improved absorption. Nano-TXA™ can be used as a base (90-100%) and helps deliver other water-soluble actives. TXC™ is soluble in glycols or oil and requires heat (60-80°C) to dissolve.

Alpha Arbutin

Alpha Arbutin, available in grades like Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) and Alpha Arbutin (China, Powder, Enzymatic Synthesis), is a glycoside that releases hydroquinone slowly into the skin, inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. It is considered a safe and effective alternative to hydroquinone for overall skin brightening and evening out skin tone.

• Usage Rate: 0.2-2% (2% is recommended for optimal whitening). Do not exceed 2%.
• Mixing: Water-soluble, mix into the final product below 30°C. The formula pH should be between 3.5-6.5. Avoid pH above 8, as it can cause breakdown into hydroquinone.
• Forms: Available in different grades, including Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form), which indicates high purity.

Comparison and Formulation Ideas

Both ingredients are effective for whitening, but they target different pathways of melanin production.

• Alpha Arbutin is generally considered very effective for overall skin brightening and inhibiting melanin synthesis. Research suggests it is significantly more effective than Beta-Arbutin.
• Tranexamic Acid is particularly noted for its efficacy against melasma and sun-induced dark spots.

You can use either ingredient individually or potentially combine them in a formulation to target multiple aspects of hyperpigmentation.

Simple Formulation Idea (Serum/Essence):
A basic water-based serum or essence is a good way to incorporate these ingredients.

1. Water Phase: Purified Water (up to 100%), Humectants (like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol).
2. Active Ingredients:
   • Add Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) (up to 3%) or Nano-TXA™ (90-100% as base, add other water-soluble actives up to 10%).
   • Add Alpha Arbutin (up to 2%). Ensure the final pH is suitable for both (ideally between 3.5-6.5).
3. Preservative: Add a suitable water-soluble preservative.
4. pH Adjustment: Adjust pH to the desired range (3.5-6.5) using a pH adjuster if necessary.
5. Mixing: For Alpha Arbutin, ensure the temperature is below 30°C when adding. Tranexamic Acid can be dissolved in the water phase. If using TXC™, it needs to be dissolved in glycol or oil first with heat before incorporating into the main formula.

Remember to always follow recommended usage rates and mixing instructions for each specific product you use. Starting with a simple formulation allows you to see the effects of the active ingredients.