Whitening Serum and Cream Formulation Recommendations

Based on your requirements for a non-greasy serum and an oil-in-water cream targeting multiple melanin synthesis pathways, here are some ingredient recommendations:

1. Non-Greasy Whitening Serum

This serum aims for a light texture, fast absorption, and powerful whitening action with a penetration enhancer.

• Key Whitening Agents:
  • Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite): A highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor and antioxidant. Use at 0.5-1.0%. Requires a small amount of oil or solvent for solubility and a pH of 4-5 for stability. Avoid certain thickeners and ingredients like amino acids or urea.
  • Hexylresorcinol AF: Water-soluble, inhibits tyrosinase, affects TRP1/TRP2, reduces melanosome transfer, and offers mild peeling. Use at 1-3%.
  • Z-White™: Water-soluble, inhibits tyrosinase activators and prevents tyrosinase formation. Use at 0.1-3% (1% recommended). May cause deflating feel >1%.
  • GlyciWhite™: Water-soluble, counteracts melanin production gently. Use at 3-10% (5% recommended).
  • MelaninTerminate™: Water-soluble, inhibits melanin formation via an endothelin antagonist process. Use at 0.01-0.1%. Avoid heat during mixing.
• Penetration Enhancer:
  • Tetrahydropiperine: A natural enhancer to improve ingredient delivery. Use at 0.01%. Dissolve in a suitable solvent like Propylene Glycol or Glycerin before adding to the formula at the final step, avoiding heat above 40°C.
• Texture & Base:
  • Formulate in a water-based serum using suitable gelling agents compatible with Phenylethyl Resorcinol's requirements. Include humectants like Glycerin or Propylene Glycol. Ensure the base is non-greasy and fast-absorbing.
• Other Considerations:
  • Maintain formula pH between 4-5.
  • Include appropriate preservatives.
  • Ensure compatibility of all chosen ingredients.

2. Oil-in-Water Whitening Cream

This cream combines key actives with ingredients targeting multiple melanin pathways for a synergistic effect.

• Key Whitening Agents:
  • Deoxyarbutin: Inhibits tyrosinase and melanosome maturation. Use at 0.5-2% (0.5% recommended, max 2% due to potential irritation). Dissolve in the oil phase with gentle heat (50-60°C). Requires pH 5.0-5.8 for stability.
  • Hydro-White™: Inhibits melanin release and transport. Use at 1-2% (1% recommended). Water-soluble, requires heat (60-80°C) to dissolve.
• Additional Melanin Pathway Blockers:
  • Hexylresorcinol AF: (See serum description) Use at 1-3%. Water-soluble.
  • Z-White™: (See serum description) Use at 0.1-3% (1% recommended). Water-soluble.
  • MelaninTerminate™: (See serum description) Use at 0.01-0.1%. Water-soluble, avoid heat.
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Helps suppress melanin transfer to keratinocytes. Typically used at 2-5%. Water-soluble.
  • Vitamin C Derivative (e.g., Ascorbyl Glucoside): Provides antioxidant effects and interferes with copper ions needed for tyrosinase. Use at appropriate concentrations (e.g., 2-5%). Solubility depends on the derivative.
  • Tranexamic Acid: Inhibits the pathway initiated by Endothelin-1. Typically used at 2-3%. Water-soluble.
• Stability & Formulation:
  • Include ActiveProtec™ OX at 1% for formula stability and to prevent discoloration, especially with Hydro-White™ and Deoxyarbutin.
  • Include Vitamin E Acetate at 0.1% for Deoxyarbutin stability.
  • Maintain formula pH between 5.0-5.8 for Deoxyarbutin stability.
  • Formulate as an O/W emulsion using suitable emulsifiers and emollients. Consider lighter emollients for a less greasy feel.
  • Add heat-sensitive ingredients (MelaninTerminate™, Tetrahydropiperine if used) during the cooling phase.
• Other Considerations:
  • Ensure compatibility of all chosen ingredients.
  • Include appropriate preservatives.
  • Due to the combination of multiple actives, start with lower recommended concentrations and test for irritation.

Both formulations should be developed with consideration for stability, compatibility, and potential irritation, especially when combining multiple active ingredients. Always perform stability testing and ensure compliance with Thai FDA regulations for bulk product manufacturing and sale.