Whitening Serum Formulation: Water-Silicone Emulsification and Ingredient Compatibility

Question

I am developing a liquid, fast-absorbing whitening serum with the following formula:

GlucoBright 4%
AlphaArbutin 2%
WhiteCumin 3%
SafeB3 5%
Trans-White 3%
4MSK 3%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 3%
Centella 2%
Water q.s.
PE-1 Aqua 2%
Phenoxyethanol 0.3%
1,2 - Hexanediol 3%
Cyclomethicone 10%

I have the following questions regarding this formula:

Which water-silicone emulsifier should I use, SiliSolve or SiliSolve Plus?
What percentage should I use for the recommended emulsifier?
Do PE-1 Aqua and 1,2 Hexanediol reduce the effectiveness of the formula?
Can all the listed active ingredients be combined in this single formula?
Can I add an additional 5% of Tranexamic Acid to this formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on your proposed formula and questions: Can this formulation be made? Yes, this formula can be mixed. Emulsifier for a liquid, fast-absorbing serum: To achieve a liquid, fast-absorbing serum texture with both water and silicone/oil phases, SiliSolve Plus (Product ID 680) at 1% is recommended as a water-in-silicone/oil emulsifier. Please note that using SiliSolve Plus typically requires a high-shear blender for proper emulsification. If your formula did not contain an oil/silicone phase, SiliSolve (Product ID 408) at 1% could be used for water-in-silicone. Satin Cream Maker (Product ID 247) is an alternative for hand mixing, but it is an O/W emulsifier and may result in a creamier texture rather than a liquid serum, and its suitability for achieving a liquid serum with this specific silicone content needs testing. Do PE-1 Aqua and 1,2 Hexanediol reduce effectiveness? No, PE-1 Aqua (Product ID 856) is a penetration enhancer that helps active ingredients absorb better into the skin, and 1,2 Hexanediol is a humectant and preservative booster. They generally enhance, not reduce, the overall effectiveness and stability of the formula. Can all active ingredients be combined? Yes, the ingredients you listed can be combined into a single formula. Adding Tranexamic Acid 5%? Trans-White (Product ID 260) is Tranexamic Acid. The maximum allowed concentration for Tranexamic Acid in cosmetic formulations is 3%. Your proposed formula already includes Trans-White at 3%, which is the maximum limit. Adding an additional 5% is not permitted and exceeds the safe usage rate. You should keep the Trans-White concentration at 3% as listed in your formula. Additional advice: Ensure the total percentage of all ingredients, including Water, adds up to 100%. Based on your list (excluding water), the total is 40.3%, so Water would be 59.7%. Consider your skin type and any sensitivities you may have to the high concentration of active ingredients. As mentioned, using SiliSolve Plus requires a blender to ensure proper emulsification and texture.