Whitening Serum/Lotion Formulation: Mixing Oil Phase and Emulsion Stability

Question

Regarding the following formula: Sterile Distilled Water 31.4% Disodium EDTA 0.2% Glycerin 99.5% 10% Pepper Extract (Piperine 98%) 1% Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) 0.1% ActiveProtec™ OX 1% Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) 0.5% Cyclotetrasiloxane (OctamethylCyclotetrasiloxane) 3% Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) 2% Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 5% MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) 2% GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4% WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) 0.3% Trans-Resveratrol (Powder, 98%) 3% Activated Resorcinol™ 1% LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate) 10% Troxerutin 2% Calcium Pantothenate 3% Natural Bisabolol 1% Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%) 0.3% Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 1% Citric Acid (High Purity) 1% Phospholipid 3% Ethoxydiglycol 3% Ethyl Alcohol 10% Nonapeptide-1 1% Can I use LipidSoft™ F as an oil base mixed with MSH White™ without using heat? Is my understanding correct? Based on question 1, if it can be used as an oil base, will this formula have water-oil compatibility issues if I use Polysorbate 20 at 2%? Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello, regarding the formula you provided, I have reviewed it and can answer your questions as follows:

Answer to your questions:

Using LipidSoft™ F as an oil base mixed with MSH White™ without heat:
LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate) is a liquid Emollient Ester, and MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) is generally soluble in oils/esters. Therefore, your understanding is correct. You can use LipidSoft™ F as an oil base to dissolve or disperse MSH White™ without needing heat. Mixing can be done at room temperature.
Water-oil compatibility issues in this formula using Polysorbate 20 at 2%:
This formula contains components in both the water phase (e.g., Sterile Distilled Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Acetyl glucosamine, various Peptides) and the oil/oil-soluble phase (e.g., LipidSoft™ F, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Trans-Resveratrol, Activated Resorcinol, MSH White™). An Emulsifier is necessary to help the water and oil phases mix into a homogeneous product.
Polysorbate 20 is a suitable O/W (Oil-in-Water) Emulsifier for water-based formulas. However, using only 2% Polysorbate 20 might be insufficient to stabilize a formula with such a relatively high and diverse load of oil phase and oil-soluble active ingredients (the oil/oil-soluble phase combined is approximately 17-20%+).
Therefore, this formula might face stability issues, potentially leading to phase separation of water and oil, or some active ingredients might crystallize or precipitate. Increasing the amount of Emulsifier, using Co-emulsifiers (like the 3% Phospholipid included, which might help), or using Thickeners to help suspend particles might be necessary for better formula stability. Additionally, the pH of the formula is important for the stability and efficacy of many active ingredients in this formula.

In summary, mixing MSH White™ in LipidSoft™ F without heat is feasible. However, the overall stability of this formula when using only 2% Polysorbate 20 might be a point to consider, and actual compatibility testing is recommended.

I hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask.