Why Use Extracts Instead of Raw Natural Ingredients in Cosmetic Formulations?

Asked by: pixzar_08 On: March 06, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I'm interested in using natural ingredients like real honey and soy milk in my cosmetic formulations, specifically in a cream or mask. Why is it generally recommended to use extracts of these ingredients instead of the raw form? What are the potential problems if I use raw honey or soy milk in my cream?

Answer

Based on your questions and the replies you've received, here's a more detailed explanation:

It's great that you're curious about cosmetic formulation! The previous replies touched on the core reason for using extracts over raw ingredients like honey or soy milk: you want the beneficial active compounds without the parts that can cause problems, primarily water and sugars/nutrients.

Here's a breakdown:

Why use extracts instead of raw ingredients (like honey or soy milk)?

  1. Concentration of Active Compounds: Extracts are processed to isolate and concentrate the specific beneficial molecules (like antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, etc.) found in the natural source. Raw ingredients contain these compounds, but also a large percentage of water, sugars, fats, and other substances that aren't necessarily beneficial for the skin or can cause issues in a formulation.
  2. Stability and Shelf Life: Raw ingredients like honey and soy milk have high water content and contain sugars and nutrients that are perfect breeding grounds for bacteria, mold, and yeast. Using them directly in a cream makes the product highly susceptible to microbial contamination and spoilage, even with preservatives. Extracts, being more purified and often in a different form (like powders or solutions in specific solvents), are much more stable and easier to preserve effectively.
  3. Formulation Compatibility: Raw ingredients can be complex mixtures that are difficult to incorporate smoothly and stably into a cream base (an emulsion of oil and water). They can affect the texture, consistency, and stability of the final product, potentially causing separation or other undesirable changes over time. Extracts are designed to be more easily integrated into cosmetic formulations.
  4. Purity and Consistency: Extracts are processed under controlled conditions to ensure a certain level of purity and a consistent concentration of the active compounds. Raw ingredients can vary significantly in composition depending on the source, season, processing, etc., leading to inconsistent results in your final product.
  5. Safety: Raw ingredients can sometimes contain natural contaminants (like spores in honey) or allergens that are removed or reduced during the extraction process.

What happens if you use real honey or soy milk in your cream?

As mentioned in the replies, the biggest risk is spoilage. The high water content and nutrients provide an ideal environment for microbes to grow rapidly. Your cream could become contaminated with harmful bacteria or mold, making it unsafe to use. To prevent this, you would need very strong preservation, which can be difficult to achieve effectively and safely in a simple homemade product.

Besides spoilage, using raw ingredients can also lead to:

  • Poor Stability: The cream might separate (oil and water layers split).
  • Unpleasant Texture: It could become sticky, grainy, or otherwise unpleasant to apply.
  • Inconsistent Results: Because the raw ingredient varies, the effect on your skin might not be the same each time you make it.

Regarding a mask formulation recipe:

Formulating cosmetics, even simple ones like masks, requires specific knowledge about ingredient compatibility, stability, preservation, pH balance, and safety testing. Providing specific formulations is beyond the scope of this tool, as incorrect formulation can lead to unstable products, microbial growth, skin irritation, or lack of effectiveness.

It's best to seek out resources specifically designed for cosmetic formulation, such as books by cosmetic chemists, reputable online formulation courses, or communities dedicated to DIY cosmetic formulation where experienced individuals share tested and safe recipes. Always start with simple recipes from trusted sources and understand the role of each ingredient, especially preservatives.

In summary, while using natural ingredients directly might seem appealing, extracts are used in cosmetics because they offer the benefits of the natural source in a concentrated, stable, pure, and formulation-friendly form, significantly reducing the risks of spoilage and instability associated with raw materials.