Formulation Review for Wrinkle Reduction

Thank you for providing your formulation for wrinkle reduction targeting the under-eye area, crow's feet, frown lines, and smile lines for combination skin users aged 40 and 60. Here is a review based on your questions and the ingredients provided:

1. Formula without Gel Base: You can technically mix the ingredients without a gel base using only distilled water and glycerin. However, as the staff mentioned, the resulting texture will be very liquid, similar to water, which can make it difficult to apply effectively. All the ingredients listed (except PE-1 Aqua, see below) are water-soluble and should be compatible in a water/glycerin base. However, using glycerin at a high level (24%) is generally not recommended as it can cause a warming sensation on the skin.

2. Adding Any Gel Later: Adding Any Gel (Dehydroxanthan Gum) at 1-2% after the formula is already mixed is possible, but it will be much harder to dissolve and incorporate smoothly. This is likely why you observed small lumps. To achieve a smooth gel texture, it is best to incorporate Any Gel at the beginning of the formulation process.

3. Correct Mixing Order:

   • With Any Gel (Recommended for better texture and PE-1 Aqua compatibility):
     1. Combine Distilled Water and Any Gel. Mix thoroughly (mechanical stirring is best, but vigorous hand mixing can work if done correctly) until a smooth, lump-free gel is formed.
     2. Add Glycerin and mix until uniform.
     3. Add the active ingredients: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Matrixyl 3000, DMAE, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron, Repair Activator, and Snow Algae. Mix well after each addition until fully dissolved.
     4. Add 1,2-Hexanediol and PE-1 Aqua. Mix until uniform.
     5. Add the chosen preservative (Phenoxyethanol, Mild Preserved Eco, or Phenoxyethanol SA). Mix until fully incorporated.
   • Without Any Gel (Will result in a very liquid texture and requires omitting PE-1 Aqua):
     1. Combine Distilled Water and Glycerin. Mix.
     2. Add the active ingredients: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Matrixyl 3000, DMAE, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron, Repair Activator, and Snow Algae. Mix well after each addition until fully dissolved.
     3. Add 1,2-Hexanediol. Mix.
     4. Add the chosen preservative (Phenoxyethanol, Mild Preserved Eco, or Phenoxyethanol SA). Mix until fully incorporated.
     • Note: PE-1 Aqua must be omitted from this version as it is an oil and will separate without an emulsifier like Any Gel.

4. Any Gel Lumps: Yes, it is common to get small lumps when mixing Any Gel by hand, especially if it's not dispersed properly in the water phase before other ingredients are added, or if mixing isn't vigorous enough. Mixing Any Gel with the water component first and ensuring it's fully hydrated before adding other ingredients is the correct method to achieve a smooth gel.

Additional Recommendations from Staff:

• PE-1 Aqua: As mentioned above, PE-1 Aqua is an oil and requires an emulsifier (like Any Gel) to be stable in the formula. Omit it if you are not using Any Gel.
• DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: The concentration of 15% is quite high. If you haven't used DMAE before, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration (5-10%) to assess skin tolerance, as higher levels can cause irritation.
• Preservative for Eye Area: For use around the sensitive eye area, Mild Preserved Eco (at 1%) or Phenoxyethanol SA (at half the concentration of regular Phenoxyethanol) are recommended as milder alternatives to standard Phenoxyethanol.

Your selection of active ingredients targets wrinkle reduction effectively. By adjusting the base, DMAE concentration, and preservative as recommended, you can create a more stable, pleasant, and skin-friendly product.