Formulation Advice for Dry, Sensitive, Aging Skin

It's great that you've seen improvements with your current serum and cream formulations! Addressing dry, dehydrated, sensitive, and aging skin requires a multi-faceted approach. Here's some advice regarding your questions and how to further enhance your formulas:

Adding Sea Kelp Extract and CM Glucan to the Serum

Yes, you can add Sea Kelp Extract (2%) and CM Glucan (5%) to your serum formula. Both ingredients are water-soluble and can help strengthen sensitive skin and reduce irritation.

• Sea Kelp Extract is known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, helping to balance all skin types and make sensitive skin stronger. It also has antioxidant benefits.
• CM Glucan is effective in reducing irritation and strengthening the skin's immune system, making it less prone to sensitivity.

The proposed percentages are within the recommended usage rates. Be aware that using a high concentration of Sea Kelp Extract might result in a slight marine-like smell in the final product, although 2% is generally not considered very high.

Moist 72 vs. Moist 24 vs. Water Lock

These three ingredients offer different types of moisturizing benefits:

• Water Lock (Polyquaternium-51) works by forming a coating on the skin's surface to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It helps keep the skin hydrated by locking in moisture.
• MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) is a humectant that helps retain moisture in the skin throughout the day. It also has the added benefit of improving the texture of formulations, making them feel soft and pleasant.
• MOIST72 (Saccharide Isomerate) is a plant-based sugar molecule similar to the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). It provides deep, long-lasting hydration, clinically proven to last up to 72 hours.

Adding either MOIST72 or MOIST24 at 5% to your serum can definitely help improve skin hydration, reduce dryness, and prevent dehydration, especially since you spend a lot of time in an air-conditioned environment. MOIST72 would provide more intense and longer-lasting hydration, while MOIST24 would also contribute to a nicer texture.

Adding PE-1 Aqua to the Serum

PE-1 Aqua is a penetration enhancer derived from natural terpenes, designed to help water-soluble active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. However, despite its name, PE-1 Aqua is designed to be mixed into the oil phase of a formulation, not the water phase. Adding it directly to your current water-based serum formula is not the recommended method and may not provide the intended penetration-enhancing benefits. If your serum is purely water-based, incorporating PE-1 Aqua would require adding an oil phase and an emulsifier to your formula, essentially changing it from a serum to an emulsion (like a lotion or cream). The recommended usage rate for PE-1 Aqua is 1.5-3.5%, with 1.0-2.0% recommended for eye area products.

Ingredients for a Lightweight Eye Serum

To create a lightweight eye serum specifically targeting under-eye bags, crow's feet, and dark circles, consider incorporating the following ingredients:

• REGU®-AGE: This ingredient is specifically designed to reduce dark circles and puffiness around the eyes. It also helps strengthen the delicate skin in this area and offers anti-inflammatory benefits.
• Pep®-Eye (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5): A popular peptide for eye care, it works by inhibiting glycation (a cause of under-eye bags) and reducing vascular permeability (a cause of dark circles).
• Orange Peel Extract (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone): This extract helps stimulate blood circulation around the eyes, which can reduce dark circles. It also has anti-glycation properties. Note that it might cause a slight warming sensation.

You can combine these active ingredients in a lightweight serum base (such as a simple water-based or gel base) to create a targeted eye treatment. Ensure the total concentration of active ingredients is within recommended usage rates to maintain a light texture suitable for the eye area and under makeup.

Incorporating ingredients like Ceramide Complex, which you already use in your cream, can also be beneficial in an eye formula to support the skin barrier and reduce sensitivity around the eyes.

By adding ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier, boost hydration, and specifically target your concerns around the eyes, you can further improve your skincare routine for dry, sensitive, aging skin.