Oil-Soluble Fragrance Fixatives and Perfume Oil Formulation Guide

Question

I would like to inquire about oil-soluble fixatives for an oil-based formula that does not contain alcohol. Specifically, which fixatives can dissolve in oil and essential oils?

If possible, please provide a formula guide for an oil-based perfume, including the ingredients and approximate percentages.

(The intended product is a spot application oil with long-lasting scent.)

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Oil-Soluble Fixatives and Perfume Oil Formula Guide

For an alcohol-free perfume oil base, several natural resins and absolutes can act as effective fixatives that are soluble or dispersible in oils. Based on the search, the following can be considered:

Styrax Resinoid
Styrax Absolute
Labdanum Absolute
Elemi Gum
Tuberose Absolute
Frangipani Absolute

These ingredients help to anchor the more volatile fragrance components, making the scent last longer on the skin.

Basic Perfume Oil Formula Structure

For a long-lasting spot application oil, a simple formula structure involves a carrier oil, your fragrance blend, and a fixative. Here is a general guide with typical percentage ranges:

Carrier Oil (e.g., Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil): 70-90%
- This forms the base of your perfume oil. Choose a light, non-greasy oil with little to no scent of its own.
Fragrance Blend (Essential Oils, Absolutes, Fragrance Oils): 10-30%
- This is where you create your desired scent profile using a mix of top, middle, and base notes. The total concentration will affect the intensity and longevity.
Fixative (e.g., Styrax Resinoid, Labdanum Absolute): 1-5%
- Include one or a blend of the oil-soluble fixatives mentioned above to help extend the wear time of the fragrance.

Example Formula Guide:

Carrier Oil: 80%
Fragrance Blend: 18%
Fixative: 2%

Instructions:

Measure your carrier oil into a clean container.
Carefully measure and add your fragrance blend.
Add your chosen fixative(s).
Stir gently or swirl to combine. Avoid vigorous shaking which can introduce air bubbles.
Allow the mixture to macerate (sit) for a period (days to weeks) in a cool, dark place. This helps the fragrance components meld together and the scent to develop.
Pour into your final packaging (e.g., rollerball bottles).

Remember that these are starting points, and you may need to adjust percentages based on the strength of your fragrance materials and desired intensity. Always perform a small patch test before applying widely.