Review of Acne and Anti-Aging Serum Formulation

Question

I am planning to create a serum to address clogged pores and provide anti-aging benefits. I want it to be a serum that can be used daily without causing irritation, as most acne treatments tend to cause redness, dryness, peeling, and irritation with continuous use.

This serum is intended for individuals aged 20+ with acne-prone, oily skin who want to prevent early signs of aging but prefer not to use multiple skincare products (similar to Olay Total Effects but with added acne treatment).

The proposed ingredients and percentages are as follows:

Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder) 4%
L-Carnitine 3%
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%) 2% (for reducing inflammation and irritation)
Niacinamide 5% (for oil control, pore tightening, and skin brightening)
Panthenol 3% (for hydration)
Matrixyl 3000 5% (for collagen synthesis and anti-aging)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol) 2% (for hydration and skin balance)
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.1% (for hydration)
Butylene Glycol 2% (solvent + hydration)
Olive Oil Water (Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters) 1% (for hydration, prevents dryness/peeling, anti-aging)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3% (penetration enhancer + reduces irritation)
Sterile Distilled Water

The proposed mixing procedure is:

Prepare ingredient 12 (Water), then add 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11. Blend or stir until combined.
Add ingredients 1 and 8. Then blend until combined.

Please review the formula and advise if any ingredients should be removed and what additional steps should be included in the mixing procedure.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Review of Acne + Anti-Aging Serum Formula

Thank you for sharing your proposed serum formula for acne treatment and anti-aging. Your goal of creating a non-irritating, daily-use serum for oily, acne-prone skin aged 20+ with anti-aging benefits is well-addressed by the selection of ingredients.

Ingredient Review:
The ingredients you've chosen are suitable for your objectives:

Acne/Oil Control: Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, L-Carnitine, Rice Vitamin (Inositol).
Anti-Aging: Niacinamide, Matrixyl 3000, Olive Oil Water.
Soothing/Hydration/Barrier: Licorice Extract, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Olive Oil Water, Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI).
Penetration Enhancement: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI).

The concentrations you've selected are generally within effective ranges for cosmetic formulations. The use of encapsulated salicylic acid and soothing ingredients like Licorice, Panthenol, and DMI is a good approach to minimize potential irritation often associated with acne treatments, aligning with your goal of a non-irritating serum.

Ingredients to Remove:
Based on your stated goals and the properties of the ingredients, none of the ingredients need to be removed. The combination appears synergistic and well-designed to tackle both acne and aging concerns while aiming for reduced irritation.

Additional Steps for Mixing Procedure:
Your proposed mixing steps are a good start, but for a stable, safe, and effective product, several crucial steps should be added:

pH Adjustment: This is critical. Salicylic acid is most effective at a low pH (around 3-4), but Niacinamide is most stable and less irritating at a pH of 5-6. Mixing them requires careful pH management. You will need to measure the pH of the final mixture and adjust it to a range that balances efficacy and stability (e.g., pH 4.5-5.5 might be a possible compromise, but check the specific requirements for your encapsulated salicylic acid product). You will need an acid (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid) and a base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution) for adjustment.
Preservation: Any water-based product must contain a preservative system to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. This is essential for product safety and shelf life. You need to select a suitable broad-spectrum preservative and add it according to the supplier's instructions.
Chelating Agent: Adding a chelating agent (e.g., Disodium EDTA) can help improve the stability of the formulation by neutralizing metal ions that can affect ingredient stability and cause discoloration.
Proper Mixing/Hydration: Ensure thorough mixing at each step. When adding Hyaluronic Acid, allow sufficient time for it to fully hydrate and thicken the serum. When adding the encapsulated salicylic acid powder, ensure it is evenly dispersed without clumps.

Refined Mixing Procedure Outline:

Prepare the water phase (Distilled Water).
Add water-soluble ingredients (L-Carnitine, Licorice Extract, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Matrixyl 3000, Rice Vitamin, Butylene Glycol, Olive Oil Water, Dimethyl Isosorbide). Mix until fully dissolved and homogeneous.
Add Hyaluronic Acid. Mix thoroughly and allow adequate time for hydration until the desired viscosity is reached.
Add Encapsulated Salicylic Acid powder. Disperse thoroughly using appropriate mixing to ensure homogeneity.
Add Chelating Agent (if using). Mix well.
Measure the pH and adjust to the desired range using an acid or base solution. Mix well after adjustment.
Add the chosen Preservative System. Mix well.
Perform final quality checks (pH, appearance, homogeneity).

By incorporating pH adjustment, preservation, and potentially a chelating agent, you will significantly improve the safety, stability, and effectiveness of your serum formulation.