Skin Brightening Serum Formulation with Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C, and Vitamin B3
คำถาม
I am formulating a skin brightening serum with the following ingredients:
Phase A:
- Distilled Water: 100 ml
- Alpha Arbutin: 2%
- Glucosamine: 4%
- Vitamin B3: 2%
- Vitamin C MAP: 5%
Phase B:
- Xanthan Gum: 1%
I have the following questions:
- Is this formula suitable? Should any ingredients or concentrations be adjusted?
- What is the correct mixing procedure for this formula?
- I want the resulting texture to be thicker than water for easier facial application. What kind of texture will 1% Xanthan Gum produce?
- If I don't use Xanthan Gum, can I use other water-soluble thickeners that dissolve easily without vigorous shaking?
- Are "Pure Aloe Vera Gel (100% Natural) 100g" and "Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel 100g" currently in stock? If out of stock, when will they be available? I am interested in using them as a gel base for another product.
คำตอบ
Evaluation of Your Formula
Your proposed formula combines several excellent ingredients for skin brightening and texture improvement: Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin C (MAP), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), and Glucosamine. The concentrations you've chosen are generally within the recommended ranges for these active ingredients:
- Alpha Arbutin (2%): This is at the higher end of the recommended usage rate (0.2-2%) for effective skin brightening.
- Glucosamine (4%): This concentration is within the recommended range (1-8%) and works well in combination with Niacinamide for improving skin tone and hydration.
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) (2%): This is a good concentration within the recommended range (1-10%) for various benefits, including reducing redness and improving skin barrier function. The Safe-B3™ type can be used up to 10% without causing flushing.
- Vitamin C MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) (5%): This concentration is within the recommended range (0.5-10%), although slightly higher than the generally recommended 3%. It should dissolve well at 5% (dissolution issues may occur above 8%).
Important Consideration: pH Compatibility
A critical challenge with this combination is the optimal pH range for each active ingredient:
- Vitamin C MAP: Requires a pH between 7-9 for stability and effectiveness.
- Alpha Arbutin: Works best at a pH between 3.5-6.5 and can break down into hydroquinone at a pH higher than 8.
- Vitamin B3 & Glucosamine: Work well in the pH range of 3-7.
It is impossible to achieve the optimal pH for both Vitamin C MAP and Alpha Arbutin simultaneously in the same formula. Formulating at a high pH (7-9) for MAP will cause Alpha Arbutin to degrade. Formulating at a low pH (3.5-6.5) for Alpha Arbutin will reduce the effectiveness and stability of MAP.
A compromise pH in the range of 5.0-6.0 might be attempted, but this will mean neither active is at its peak stability or efficacy. For best results, consider using a different form of Vitamin C that is stable at a lower pH (like L-Ascorbic Acid derivatives that work in acidic conditions) or formulating these actives in separate products with appropriate pH levels.
Mixing Procedure
If you choose to proceed with the current ingredients, here is a general mixing procedure. Please note the pH challenge mentioned above.
- In your 100ml of distilled water, dissolve the Alpha Arbutin, Glucosamine, and Vitamin B3 powders. Stir or mix until fully dissolved.
- In a separate small amount of distilled water, dissolve the Vitamin C MAP powder.
- Add the dissolved Vitamin C MAP solution to the main water phase and mix well.
- Slowly add the Xanthan Gum to the mixture while stirring continuously and vigorously (a high-speed mixer or blender is recommended for best dispersion and to avoid clumps). Alternatively, you can disperse the Xanthan Gum in a small amount of glycerin (if using) or a compatible oil before adding to the water phase.
- Continue mixing until the Xanthan Gum is fully hydrated and a smooth gel texture is achieved.
- Add any other desired ingredients, such as a preservative (essential for water-based formulas to prevent microbial growth - this is not included in your list but is crucial).
- Carefully check the pH of the final mixture using a pH meter or strips. Adjust the pH to your desired range (e.g., 5.0-6.0 as a compromise, or the optimal range for the active you prioritize) using a suitable pH adjuster (like a weak acid or base solution). Mix thoroughly after adjusting.
Texture with Xanthan Gum
Using 1% Xanthan Gum will create a gel texture. It will significantly thicken the water base, preventing it from being a thin liquid and making it easier to apply to the face. The texture is typically a clear gel with normal flow properties.
Alternatives to Xanthan Gum
If you want a thickener that is easier to dissolve without needing vigorous shaking or specific dispersion techniques like Xanthan Gum, consider these options:
- CarboQuick™: This is a pre-dispersed Carbomer gel that can be easily mixed into water without needing to dissolve powder or adjust pH for gel formation (it works in pH 6-7). You simply add it to your water phase and mix.
- HPMC ColdMix™: Some grades of Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC), like HPMC ColdMix™, are designed to dissolve more easily in cold water compared to standard HEC or HPMC which often require heating or specific dispersion methods.
Availability of Gel Bases
You asked about "Pure Aloe Vera Gel (100% Natural) 100g" and "Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel 100g".
- We have Aloe Vera Gel bases available, such as Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy). Please note that these are formulated bases containing Aloe Vera extract, Vitamin B5, Allantoin, and a gelling agent, not 100% pure natural gel.
- We also have a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base which is a gel base containing multiple forms of hyaluronic acid, designed for hydration.
Regarding stock availability for specific sizes like 100g, I am unable to check current stock levels with my tools. Please check the product pages on the website for real-time availability.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy)
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base