Stabilizing Ceramide NP in Essence to Prevent Precipitation

The issue of precipitation when using Ceramide NP (pure powder) in an essence formula is common because pure Ceramide NP is a lipid that is highly insoluble in water and difficult to keep stable in aqueous systems. Even if it appears to dissolve initially with the help of solubilizers and heat, it often recrystallizes and precipitates once the temperature drops or the ratio is not perfectly balanced.

To resolve this and ensure a stable, non-precipitating formula, here are the recommended approaches:

1. Switch to a Water-Dispersible Ceramide (Highly Recommended)

For water-based formulas like essences, using a pre-processed ceramide designed for water dispersion is much more effective than using pure powder.

• Ceracare™ NP50 (Water/Oil Dispersible Ceramide NP): This is a 50% Ceramide NP encapsulated in a solid lipid carrier. It is specifically designed to be easily dispersed in water or glycols.
  • How to use: Disperse it in Butylene Glycol or Propanediol and heat to 70-80°C before adding it to the water phase of your essence. This will provide much better stability than pure powder.

2. Use a Liquid Ceramide Complex

• Ceracare™ Oil (Clear Oil Ceramide): If your essence can incorporate a small amount of oil or if you are making a bi-phase essence, this product contains a 2% minimum of 3 types of ceramides already dissolved in a clear oil. It is much easier to work with than powder.

3. If you must use Pure Ceramide NP Powder

If you continue using Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP) powder, you must adjust the process and proportions:

• Heat is mandatory: You must heat the mixture of Ceramide NP and your solubilizer (MakeUp-Wash™ / PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) to 70-80°C until it is completely clear before incorporating it into the rest of the formula.
• Solubilizer Ratio: The ratio of 5% PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides may not be sufficient to keep the Ceramide NP stable in a high-water environment. You may need to increase the solubilizer or add a co-solubilizer.
• Stabilizers: Adding Cholesterol and Fatty Acids (in a 3:1:1 ratio of Ceramide:Cholesterol:Fatty Acid) can help stabilize the ceramide structure, but this usually results in a milky/opaque emulsion rather than a clear essence.

Summary Recommendation:
For a stable, clear, or translucent essence, switching to Ceracare™ NP50 is the most reliable solution to prevent precipitation. It simplifies the formulation process and ensures the Ceramide NP remains active and well-distributed in the formula.