Updated BB/CC Cream Formula using Water-in-Oil EZ for Long-Lasting, Waterproof, Light Coverage

Asked by: xboyspattaya On: February 06, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am requesting an updated formula for a BB/CC cream using Water-in-Oil EZ as the cream base.

The desired properties are:

  • Sweat-resistant
  • Waterproof
  • Long-lasting
  • Light texture
  • Ability to cover wrinkles
  • Provides natural facial brightening

I am seeking an updated formula because there are many new ingredients available, and I am unsure about the appropriate ingredients and percentages to use. The older formulas I have used were not as durable as desired.

Answer

Updated BB/CC Cream Formula using Water-in-Oil EZ

Here is an updated guideline for creating a long-lasting, sweat- and water-resistant BB/CC cream with a light texture, wrinkle coverage, and natural brightening, using Water-in-Oil EZ™ as the base.

Water-in-Oil EZ™ is an excellent choice for this type of formulation as it creates a water-in-oil emulsion, which provides good film-forming properties for durability and water resistance.

Sample Formulation Structure

This is a sample structure. Percentages can be adjusted based on desired texture, coverage, and feel.

Phase A (Oil Phase):

  • Water-in-Oil EZ™: 2-4%
  • LipidSoft™ CC: 5-15% (Provides light texture, spreadability, and helps with wrinkles)
  • Other emollients/oils (e.g., light silicones, esters): 10-20%

Phase B (Water Phase):

  • Water: Balance to 100%
  • Cationic Nanocellulose (e.g., Cationic Nanocellulose 0.5mmol/g): 0.5-1.5% (Stabilizer)
  • Brightening Agents (Choose one or a combination):
    • Tranexamic Acid: Up to 3%
    • Yeast Radiance™: 3%
    • Pep-Even™: 0.5-5%
    • CosmoWhite™: 0.1-1.5%
    • GlyciWhite™: 3-10%
    • MelaninTerminate™: 0.01-0.1%
  • FoundationFix™: 5-15% (For wrinkle coverage)
  • Preservative: As per supplier's recommendation
  • Magnesium Sulfate: ~1% (Helps stabilize Water-in-Oil emulsion)

Phase C (Color Phase - Adjust as needed for desired shade):

  • WaterMix™ White (Titanium Dioxide 60%): 5-15%
  • SI-2 Yellow LLXLO: 0.1-2%
  • SI-2 Red R-516L: 0.05-1%
  • SI-2 BLACK BL-100 or WaterMix™ Black: 0.01-0.5%

Phase D (Additives - Optional):

  • UltraBlur™: 0.1-10% (For blurring effect)
  • Fragrance: As desired

Mixing Procedure (Water-in-Oil Emulsion)

  1. Combine all ingredients in Phase A and stir until uniform.
  2. Combine all ingredients in Phase B and stir until dissolved/uniform.
  3. Combine all ingredients in Phase C and mix/grind pigments well until fully dispersed and smooth. This is a critical step for even color.
  4. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while continuously stirring or homogenizing. Add in small portions, allowing each addition to emulsify before adding more. This is crucial for forming a stable water-in-oil emulsion.
  5. Once Phase B is fully incorporated and the emulsion is formed, slowly add Phase C while stirring until the color is evenly distributed.
  6. Add ingredients from Phase D (if any) and stir until fully incorporated.
  7. Check pH and adjust if necessary (typically pH 3-8 for Tranexamic Acid, 4.0-6.5 for Yeast Radiance™).

This formula provides a starting point. You may need to adjust the percentages of oils, pigments, and powders to achieve your desired texture, coverage, and finish. The combination of Water-in-Oil EZ™, LipidSoft™ CC, and appropriate powders like UltraBlur™ and pigments will help achieve the long-lasting, light, and naturally radiant finish with wrinkle coverage you are looking for.