White flakes in cream formulation with Kojic Acid Dipalmitate

Question

I am creating a cream formulation that includes 3% Kojic Acid Dipalmitate and LipidSoft in the oil phase. After completing the mixing process, I observed white flakes appearing in the finished cream product. What is the reason for these white flakes, and how can I modify my process to prevent them?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Solution for Undissolved Kojic Acid Dipalmitate

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate needs to be fully dissolved in the oil phase of your formula before being incorporated into the cream. Since it's a powder, simply mixing it into the oil at room temperature may not be enough for complete dissolution, especially at a 3% concentration.

The recommended method is to:

Combine the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate powder with the LipidSoft (oil phase) in your formula.
Gently heat this mixture to approximately 60°C. You can gauge this temperature by touch – it should feel hot but not scalding.
Stir the mixture continuously while heating until the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate powder is completely dissolved and the mixture becomes a clear or slightly creamy liquid without any visible particles.
Once fully dissolved, you can proceed to mix this oil phase with the water phase and other ingredients according to your cream formulation steps.

Ensuring complete dissolution of the Kojic Acid Dipalmitate in the heated oil phase before emulsification should prevent the formation of white flakes in the final cream product.