Cream Formulation: Stability, Cold Process, and Adding Actives for Dark Spots

The phenomenon you're observing, where the cream separates into a thicker layer at the bottom and a lighter layer or oil on top over time, is called Emulsion Instability, specifically Creaming and eventually Separation.

Based on the staff's advice regarding your formula using Luxury Cream Maker, the primary cause is likely related to the mixing process, particularly the lack of heat during emulsification. Luxury Cream Maker performs best and provides maximum stability when heat is used during the combining of the water and oil phases.

How to fix the cream separation issue:

• For already separated cream: Gently heat the cream to around 60°C and blend or stir thoroughly to re-emulsify.
• For making new batches with Luxury Cream Maker:
  • Heat both the Water Phase and Oil Phase to approximately 60°C just before combining them.
  • Gradually add the water phase to the oil phase (or vice versa) while continuously blending or stirring at medium speed until a cream texture is achieved.
  • Immediately stop heating once combined and continue blending at low speed until the cream cools down completely. This helps the cream set and ensures maximum stability.

• If you prefer not to use heat: Consider using a different cream maker that works well in cold process or doesn't require heat for stability, such as Light Cream Maker, Satin Mousse, or Pro Polymer (staff recommended 1% for your formula).

• Regarding Polysorbate 20: Adding Polysorbate 20 will not help stabilize this specific formula because cream makers like Luxury Cream Maker are complete emulsifier systems. Polysorbate 20 is useful when calculating HLB for combining multiple emulsifiers, which is not necessary with cream makers.

Adding actives for dark spots:

Your current formula does not contain strong exfoliating ingredients, which can help fade dark spots. You have a few options:

1. Add Pumpkin Renew™: This is a mild exfoliant recommended by the staff. You can add 3-5% by reducing the water amount. Adding 5% by replacing water without removing other ingredients is confirmed to be okay.
2. Add Azelaic Acid water soluble: Azelaic Acid is effective but is an electrolyte and can destabilize the emulsion with your current cream maker. If you want to add it to this formula, you should also add Pro Polymer at 1% to help stabilize it. The percentage of Azelaic Acid depends on your skin's tolerance and desired results.
3. Make a separate spot corrector: This is a viable option to use Azelaic Acid at a higher concentration (up to 10%). You could combine it with other potent whitening actives like Active Resveratrol. This approach targets dark spots specifically but won't provide the overall benefits of your main cream.

In summary, to fix the separation issue with Luxury Cream Maker, use heat during emulsification and blend until cool, or switch to a cold-process friendly cream maker. For dark spots, adding Pumpkin Renew™ is an easy option for mild exfoliation in the main cream, while Azelaic Acid is more potent but requires careful formulation (adding Pro Polymer) or is best used in a separate spot treatment.