a seco-iridoid glycoside abundant in Gentiana species. Beyond its well-known oral pharmacology, several recent studies show that GPS can be delivered topically to support skin health thanks to a cluster of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-glycation and pro-healing activities.

Gentiopicroside (GPS, sometimes called gentiopicrin) is a seco-iridoid glycoside abundant in Gentiana species. Beyond its well-known oral pharmacology, several recent studies show that GPS can be delivered topically to support skin health thanks to a cluster of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-glycation and pro-healing activities. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

1. Anti-inflammatory & Antioxidant Shield

• Cellular studies – GPS lowers ROS and suppresses NF-κB / MAPK signalling in TNF-α- or IFN-γ-stimulated keratinocytes, partly by releasing Nrf2 from Keap1, thereby reducing IL-6, IL-23A and other cytokines. mdpi.com pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
• Inflammation-driven skin models – In mouse models of atopic-like dermatitis, topical or intradermal GPS markedly cut epidermal thickness and inflammatory cell infiltration, again via Nrf2 up-regulation. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Formulation takeaway: These pathways are triggered at low micromolar GPS, making 0.05 – 0.5 % w/w a pragmatic starting range for soothing gels or serums.

2. Anti-psoriatic Activity

• GPS-loaded chitosan nanoparticles (≈ 100 nm) inhibited HaCaT keratinocyte hyper-proliferation, down-regulated K17/VEGF-A expression, and visibly improved erythema and scaling in imiquimod-induced psoriatic mice. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov researchgate.net
• Free GPS likewise relieved psoriasiform lesions through Keap1–Nrf2 signalling; the effect was lost in Nrf2-knock-out mice, confirming a direct antioxidative-anti-inflammatory mechanism. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

3. Wound & Ulcer Healing

• Pressure-injury model (rats): local GPS injections accelerated re-epithelialisation and cut inflammatory cell counts compared with saline. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
• Diabetic ulcers (mice): topical GPS re-activated the AKT1 → HIF-1α → VEGF pathway, boosting angiogenesis, collagen deposition and granulation-tissue formation, which closed wounds faster than control dressings. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

The pro-healing profile makes GPS a candidate for hydrogels, hydrocolloid dressings or spray-on emulsions aimed at chronic wounds.

4. Anti-glycation & “Inflamm-aging” Defence

Dermal fibroblasts exposed to glyoxal-derived AGEs showed restored viability, reduced MMP-1 and better ECM homeostasis when pre-treated with GPS, supporting its use as an AGE-breaker to delay wrinkle formation and stiffness in photo-exposed skin. nature.com

5. UV-related Skin Injury (Emerging Patent Evidence)

A recent Chinese patent describes a GPS–eriocitrin complex for cosmetics that “effectively treats and relieves skin injury caused by ultraviolet induction,” pointing toward future photoprotective or after-sun applications. patents.google.com

6. Physicochemical & Formulation Notes

7. Formulation Guidance at a Glance

1. Dissolve GPS in the aqueous phase (40 – 50 °C) or create a concentrated 5 – 10 % stock in water + 10 % propanediol for easy dosing.
2. Combine with calming humectants (panthenol, β-glucan) if targeting irritated skin.
3. Avoid strong oxidants or metal ions that might degrade iridoid glycosides.
4. Package in light-protected containers; store < 25 °C to limit hydrolysis.

Key Take-Home Messages

• GPS is a multi-functional botanical active offering anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-glycation, anti-psoriatic and pro-healing effects when applied topically.
• Efficacy is backed by recent in vitro keratinocyte data, rodent wound studies and psoriasis models.
• Its water solubility and safety profile allow straightforward incorporation into modern “clean-label” gels, serums, sprays and hydrogel patches targeting sensitive, aged or lesion-prone skin.

Usage: Can be used in any cosmetics product due to its benefits.

How to mix: Mix in the formula in water part.

Usage rate: 0.1-0.2%

Product appearance: Off-white to beige powder

Solubility: Soluble in water

Storage: For long-term storage Store in the refrigerator. Avoid exposure to light or heat. Seal the lid tightly. Shelf life is at least 2 years.

INCI Name : Gentiopicrin