ActiveRelease™ Glycyrrhizic (Encapsulated Glycyrrhizic Acid) is a water-compatible cosmetic active concentrate containing 15% glycyrrhizic acid encapsulated in cyclodextrin.

Glycyrrhizic acid is a licorice-derived triterpenoid saponin used in cosmetic formulas for soothing, anti-redness, sensitive-skin, blemish-prone skin, after-sun, and barrier-comfort formulas. The encapsulated format improves handling of this poorly water-compatible active by improving apparent dispersibility, stability, and active presentation in aqueous systems.

This SKU is designed for formulators who want glycyrrhizic acid performance without building a high-solvent system. It is suitable for serums, toners, gels, creams, lotions, masks, and leave-on calming systems where clarity, low odor, and easy cool-down addition are important.

Product Description: The evidence base for glycyrrhizic acid and related licorice actives supports anti-redness and comfort claims through inflammatory-signal modulation and antioxidant/photo-stress protection. In TNF-α-stimulated HaCaT keratinocytes and an imiquimod mouse skin model, glycyrrhizin reduced ICAM-1 expression and moderated NF-κB/MAPK signaling, which is relevant to formulas for visibly stressed or redness-prone skin. In a TPA mouse skin-inflammation model, glycyrrhizic acid reduced iNOS and COX-2 expression and blocked upstream ERK/p38 MAPK and PI3K/Akt activation before NF-κB signaling. In UV-B-exposed human skin fibroblasts, glycyrrhizic acid reduced ROS-linked ER stress, MAPK activation, mitochondrial depolarization, and apoptosis, supporting photoaging-support and antioxidant use.

This 15% cyclodextrin complex is best positioned as a cosmetic soothing and anti-redness support active, using the glycyrrhizic-acid evidence base together with the delivery-format rationale. Avoid medical claims such as treating eczema, psoriasis, acne, or dermatitis unless the finished product is registered and tested for that purpose.

Usage: Suitable for soothing serums, redness-care toners, sensitive-skin gels, after-sun products, post-exfoliation comfort products, blemish-prone skin products, barrier-support creams, and lightweight lotions.

Mixing method:

- Add during cool-down or at the final step, preferably below 45°C.

- Premix with water or water/glycol phase, then add to the main batch with gentle mixing until uniform.

- Best used in formulas around pH 4-7.5. Avoid strong oxidizers, high electrolyte systems that may reduce clarity, and prolonged high heat.

Usage rate: 0.5-3%

Use 0.5-3% of this 15% concentrate to deliver approximately 0.075-0.45% glycyrrhizic acid. Typical use: 1% concentrate delivers approximately 0.15% active.

Product characteristics: Off-white to pale beige dry powder; mild characteristic odor.

Solubility: Water-compatible cyclodextrin complex. The underlying glycyrrhizic acid has limited direct water compatibility, while this delivery format improves aqueous dispersion and use in water-based formulas.

Storage: Store tightly closed in a dry, cool area. Protect from humidity, heat, and direct light.