Low‑melt wax ester emollient for fast slip and a drier, silky afterfeel in emulsions, balms, and sticks; oil‑phase ingredient that may crystallize/haze near room temperature.
Lauryl Laurate (INCI: Lauryl Laurate) is a straight‑chain wax‑ester (mono‑ester) formed from lauryl alcohol (C12) and lauric acid (C12). In practical formulation work it behaves like an "instant‑melt" ester wax: borderline solid at room temperature, but melts quickly on skin contact to deliver fast glide with a drier, more powdery afterfeel.
Because its melting point sits near ambient (commonly ~23–30°C, typical around ~27°C), Lauryl Laurate can meaningfully change texture with temperature and may crystallize/haze in clear anhydrous oils when stored cool. Used intentionally, this near‑skin‑temp melt behavior can improve spread, reduce greasy drag, and soften wax networks for creamier payoff.
It is strongly lipophilic (high logP; calculated ~10.975) and is practically insoluble in water, so it partitions into the oil phase and is best treated as an oil‑phase sensorial modifier and low‑melt structurant rather than a water‑phase active.
Product Description: Lauryl Laurate is widely used to tune feel and structure in emulsions and anhydrous systems. Beyond emolliency, industry function listings include binder, emulsion stabilizing, opacifying, and hair conditioning—reflecting how this wax‑ester can both improve sensory glide and contribute to oil‑phase structuring.
Key formulation‑relevant properties and QC levers (typical ranges vary by supplier cut/purity):
| Item |
Typical value / why it matters |
| CAS |
13945-76-1 |
| Molecular weight |
~368.64 g/mol (large, very lipophilic ester) |
| Lipophilicity |
High logP (calculated ~10.975) → strong oil‑phase partitioning and substantive, "dry" sensory contribution |
| Melting point |
~23–30°C (typ. ~27°C) → temperature‑dependent viscosity; potential haze/crystallization near ambient |
| Density (reference) |
~0.860 g/cm³ @ 20°C (calculated) → useful for batching by volume and density checks |
| Thermal handling |
Often reported flash point >200°C in typical SDSs; handle molten material with appropriate hot‑liquid PPE |
| Saponification value (QC) |
Often ~130–150 → useful for lot‑to‑lot monitoring of ester cut/purity |
Compatibility notes and common "gotchas" to test early:
- Clear anhydrous oils: may crystallize and create haze/"snow" at cooler storage temperatures due to its near‑ambient melt point.
- Texture drift near 25–30°C: expect stronger temperature‑dependence than higher‑melt waxes; evaluate rheology/feel at multiple temperatures.
- Wax network interactions (sticks/hot pours): can improve payoff and flexibility, but may soften hardness—rebalance with higher‑melt structurants if needed.
- Stability screening: consider DSC (or melt profile), heat/cool cycling, and hardness/penetrometry at 20°C/25°C/40°C depending on your distribution climate.
Usage: Emulsions (O/W and W/O) for lighter, drier afterfeel; anhydrous balms/salves for de‑greasing glide; hot‑pour sticks (lipstick, foundation/sunscreen sticks) to boost slip and payoff; hair care (conditioners, styling/pomades) for conditioning feel and texture.
Mixing method:
- Add to the oil phase (or wax/oil base) and heat until fully melted and uniform; then proceed with emulsification or hot‑pour processing.
- For emulsions: melt with the oil phase and wax package; monitor viscosity differences between 25°C and 40°C when the system sits near its melt point.
- For clear anhydrous oils/serums: if clarity is required, pre‑test at low storage temperatures; you may need to lower the use level or adjust the oil blend to reduce crystallization/haze.
- For sticks/hot pours: control cooling profile to minimize grain/haze; treat Lauryl Laurate as a plasticizer/feel modifier and tune hardness with higher‑melt structurants.
Usage rate: 1–10%
Typical starting points: ~1–5% in emulsions; ~3–8% in balms for a less greasy feel; ~1–5% in sticks as a payoff/plasticizer modifier. Higher levels can be used in wax‑structured hot‑pour architectures, but hardness and temperature stability must be rebalanced and validated.
Product characteristics: Waxy solid/semi‑solid (often flakes/pastilles); melts near skin temperature; clear to pale yellow when molten; mild characteristic odor.
Solubility: Practically insoluble in water; oil‑soluble. Compatible with many vegetable/mineral waxes, vegetable oils, mineral oils, and petrolatum (validate clarity and crystallization behavior if targeting clear systems).
Storage: Store tightly closed in a dry place away from excessive heat. Because it can sit near its melt point at ambient conditions, expect softening/melting in warm climates and potential crystallization/haze in cool storage; manage heat/cool cycling during stability and shipping.
