Vitamin F EZ (Water Soluble Linoleic Acid, 30%) is a water‑soluble, formulation‑ready concentrate that delivers linoleic acid (LA) in the water phase for barrier‑supporting, clarity‑focused skincare.
LA (C18:2, ω‑6) is the skin‑preferred fatty acid esterified to ω‑hydroxy very‑long‑chain ceramides to form acyl‑ceramides — cornerstone lipids of the stratum corneum. Topical delivery of LA supports lamellar structure and helps limit TEWL; adult forearm work shows sunflower seed oil (LA‑rich) maintains or improves barrier metrics while olive oil can impair them. Clinical care in fragile infant skin further supports cutaneous compatibility at the skin surface (context differs from cosmetics but is mechanistically informative).
As a functional active, LA has reduced microcomedones by ~25% in a double‑blind, placebo‑controlled cross‑over study (mild acne), aligning with low sebum LA as a contributor to follicular hyperkeratinization. LA can also lighten hyperpigmented spots via accelerated tyrosinase degradation in melanocytes; liposomal delivery improved visible “whitening” measures in studies. Delivery system and oxidation control strongly influence performance.
Product Description: Clear, water‑soluble linoleic acid concentrate (30% w/w) pre‑solubilized with non‑ionic solubilizers and polyol carriers for direct water‑phase dosing. Lightweight skin feel; oxidation is managed with antioxidants and is further improved by good processing and packaging practice.
| Model/System |
Key Endpoints |
Implication |
| Barrier biology (ceramide pathway) |
LA esterifies ω‑hydroxy ceramides → acyl‑ceramides; lamellar integrity; ↓ TEWL |
Barrier support/comfort |
| Human skin (adult forearm) |
Sunflower oil maintained/improved barrier vs. olive oil which impaired |
Favors LA‑forward emollients |
| Clinical (mild acne, RCT) |
~25% reduction in microcomedone size with topical LA |
Supports acne‑prone care |
| Melanocyte models/clinical |
↑ proteolytic degradation of tyrosinase; ↓ melanin (delivery‑dependent) |
Uneven tone support |
Usage: Leave‑on serums, gel‑creams, light lotions, toners/essences; clarity and barrier support for oily/blemish‑prone or compromised skin. Partners: ceramides + cholesterol (e.g., 3:1:1 systems) and niacinamide for complementary barrier/brightening support.
Mixing method:
- Add in the cool‑down water phase (≤40°C) with moderate stirring until uniform.
- Compatible with most non‑ionic/anionic systems; high electrolytes or cationic polymers may opacify — verify in pilot batches.
- Oxidation control for LA (PUFA): minimize air/oxygen, consider chelators (e.g., EDTA) and mixed tocopherols; avoid prolonged heat/high shear.
- Prefer airless or aluminum‑laminate packs; minimize headspace at fill.
Usage rate: 2–8% typical for leave‑on (delivers ~0.6–2.4% LA); up to 10% for short‑contact/rinse‑off. Literature commonly uses 1–5% delivered LA depending on format.
Delivered‑active mapping (30% LA): 1% use → ~0.30% LA; 3% → ~0.90%; 6.7% → ~2.0%.
Product characteristics: Clear to slightly opalescent, low‑viscosity liquid; light fatty odor.
Solubility: Freely miscible in water (pre‑solubilized LA concentrate); add directly to the water phase.
Storage: Store tightly closed at 15–25°C, away from heat/light and oxygen exposure; prefer airless/low‑headspace packaging.
