Cosmax™ SP (e.q. Cosmedia SP)
Cosmax™ SP is an anionic polymer emulsifier (Sodium Polyacrylate) for creating a smooth, velvety texture in creams and gels in modern skincare products.
Cosmax™ SP was developed in France to have the same properties as "Cosmedia SP" but is not manufactured by the manufacturer. Cosmedia SP was developed to have the same chemical structure, INCI and function and has undergone the following tests:
1. Emulsification test was compared by using various stability tests (centrifuge/heat/microscopic emulsion inspection) and found to be equivalent.
2. Test the usage rate according to the viscosity that occurs in the formula. It is found to be in the same range.
Even in low doses, it can increase the viscosity of the water phase, help to retain oil droplets and suspended solids, and provide a non-sticky feel even in formulations containing high levels of oil or pigments.
The raw material is a white to yellowish powder, free-flowing, containing more than 88% active ingredient. It can be used in cold-process in the pH range of 6–12. It is compatible with water, glycols, many highly polar solvents and a wide range of oils (including silicones and vegetable oils). It is suitable for EO-free formulations and helps to simplify formulations.
Product Description: Cosmax SP is a crosslinked Sodium Polyacrylate polymer for modifying the rheology of water-in-oil emulsions and water-in-oil gels. When hydrated, it swells into a three-dimensional network, helping to capture oil droplets and active ingredients in suspension, resulting in a stable, glossy, and soft-to-the-touch creamy texture even at low dosages. It has moderate electrolyte resistance and helps maintain viscosity in formulations containing active ingredients, sunscreen filters, and various pigments when the pH is controlled within the recommended range.
Usage: Facial care products, body care products, sunscreen, baby skin products, and makeup products that require a stable cream or gel texture that feels smooth and soft.
How to mix:
- Sprinkle the powder into the aqueous phase gradually while stirring to reduce clumping and allow time for the polymer to fully hydrate before adding high amounts of oil or active ingredient.
- Adjust the pH to be in the range of 6–12 (generally, facial skin care formulas use around pH 6.5–7.5) to achieve the appropriate viscosity and holding power.
- For cream or lotion formulations, Cosmax SP can be added to the water phase or premixed partially to the oil phase. It can be used for both hot and cold processes, but prolonged heating above 80 °C should be avoided.
- In pigmented makeup formulations, the polymer gel should be created first before the pigment is added to achieve smooth blending and good suspension.
Usage rate: 0.2–1.5%
Typically 0.2–1.5% of this polymer containing more than 88% active ingredient is used, while in cream and lotion formulations around 0.4–0.8% is often used, giving approximately 0.35–0.7% of the active Sodium Polyacrylate in the finished formulation.
Product characteristics: Yellowish white powder, free flowing, anionic polymer, preservative-free.
Solubility: Dispersible in water and aqueous systems. When pH is adjusted to 6–12, the polymer swells into a gel network, helping to stabilize the cream. It can be dispersed in emulsions containing silicone or vegetable oils, but is not directly soluble in oils.
Preservative-free, suitable for EO-free formulas and does not contain acrylamide.
