Diethoxy Diglycol Azelate
Cosmetics
Code: 254468
Liquid cosmetic penetration enhancer and co-solvent for improving delivery of ceramide and other barrier-limited actives in leave-on skin-care formulas.
Diethoxy Diglycol Azelate is a liquid cosmetic penetration enhancer and delivery solvent for formulas that need better wetting, partitioning and diffusion of selected lipophilic or low-solubility actives.
Its most useful role is as a formulation-performance ingredient rather than a stand-alone active. In leave-on skin care, it helps the formulator build a more effective delivery environment for ingredients such as ceramides, lipid actives, sebum-care actives and barrier-support systems.
The material is a colorless to pale yellow liquid with characteristic odor, high HPLC content and a refractive index in the expected range. It should be stored sealed, protected from light and kept below 10°C.
Regulatory development note: This is a newly developed ingredient produced by reaction between ethoxydiglycol and azelaic acid. EU and Thailand regulatory/INCI registration is still in process. Use only for early formulation development, prototype screening and stability/performance evaluation. Do not use in final commercial cosmetic products until the INCI/regulatory registration and approval status are completed.
Product Description: Diethoxy Diglycol Azelate can be used as a co-solvent, solubilizing aid and penetration-enhancement component in emulsions, serums, oil gels and hydroalcoholic systems. The key formulation target is to improve contact between the active, the vehicle and the stratum corneum, especially when the active is difficult to deliver from a standard emulsion.
| Model/System | Key Endpoint | Formulation Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Franz-cell diffusion with 0.5% Ceramide III | 0.5% Diethoxy Diglycol Azelate increased measured delivery/reservoir values by +41% at 8 h skin reservoir, +62% at 24 h skin reservoir, +67% at 24 h receiver and +82% at 48 h receiver versus Ceramide III alone. | Supports use as a delivery aid when working with ceramide or other barrier-limited lipophilic actives. |
| 5-alpha reductase enzyme screening | Inhibition increased with dose from 21.83% at 0.01% to 36.97% at 2%. | May support scalp/sebum-control concepts when the formula architecture and active system are appropriate. |
| Inflammatory marker screening | TNF-alpha inhibition 83.82% and IL-1 model inhibition 84.80% at 0.0625% in supplied in-vitro models. | Supports calming/barrier-care positioning as formulation-support evidence; not a clinical treatment claim. |
The Franz-cell ceramide data are the most relevant evidence for this product category. At 0.5% with 0.5% Ceramide III, the enhancer improved measured ceramide delivery/reservoir values across the tested time points compared with Ceramide III alone. Treat these results as in-vitro formulation evidence for active delivery design, not as a finished-product clinical claim.
| Item | Specification / Result |
|---|---|
| Appearance | Colorless to pale yellow liquid |
| Odor | Characteristic odor |
| Content by HPLC | Specification ≥95.0%; result 98.34% |
| Refractive index | Specification 1.440-1.480; result 1.452 |
| Microbiology | Aerobic plate ≤100 CFU/mL; yeast & molds ≤10 CFU/mL; E. coli, P. aeruginosa and S. aureus negative |
| Heavy metals | <20 ppm |
Usage: Penetration-enhancement systems for ceramide creams, barrier repair creams, facial serums, lotions, oil gels, hydroalcoholic serums, scalp serums and other leave-on cosmetic products where active delivery or solubilization is a limiting factor.
Mixing method:
- Add during cool-down or final adjustment whenever possible. Keep processing temperature below 45°C and protect from prolonged light exposure.
- For ceramide or lipid-active systems, pre-mix with the oil/glycol/solvent portion or with the active concentrate before adding to the emulsion. Ensure the active is fully wetted and evenly distributed before final homogenization.
- Suitable for oil phase, glycol phase, hydroalcoholic systems and post-emulsification addition. For very water-rich gels, pre-solubilize or pre-disperse before addition to prevent localized haze or separation.
- Target finished-formula pH 3-8. Confirm compatibility with polymers, electrolytes, high surfactant systems and packaging by stability testing.
Usage rate: 0.5-5% of the finished formula. Typical starting point: 1-2%. For ceramide-delivery work, start around 0.5-1% with the ceramide phase and optimize by stability and performance testing.
Product characteristics: Colorless to pale yellow liquid; characteristic odor; HPLC content 98.34%; refractive index 1.452.
Solubility: Compatible with glycols, ethoxydiglycol, oil/ester systems, hydroalcoholic systems and many cosmetic solvent systems; dispersible in emulsions and oil gels. Not intended to be added neat directly into plain water without a compatible solvent or emulsified system.
Storage: Store tightly sealed, protected from light and below 10°C. Use promptly after opening and minimize repeated warm/cold cycling.
- Colorless to pale yellow liquid; characteristic odor
- Fridge (1-10C)
- Fridge (1-10C)
- 12 Months from manufacturing or testing date.
- 0.50% - 5.00%
- 2.00%
- Add during cool-down (<45C) at final step; compatible pH 3–8.
- 3.00 - 8.00
- Soluble in Oil, Soluble in glycols, Soluble in Ethoxydiglycol, Soluble in Ethanol, Dispersible in oil, Dispersible in cream or gel base, Soluble in Organic Solvents, Soluble in Hydroalcoholic Solutions
- Cream, Lotion, Clear Gel, Mask, Serum, Oil-Based Serum, General Cosmetic Additive, Cosmetic Manufacturing Ingredient, Skin Penetration Enhancement
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