Pure-Escin™ is a high-purity (≥98%) escin (aescin) active — a mixture of triterpene saponins naturally found in horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum).
Escin has a long history of topical use in gel systems where it is studied for supporting the appearance of bruising/impact-related discomfort and for improving skin microcirculation markers in vein-related conditions. In cosmetics, this evidence is used as a technical rationale for formulas targeting the look of puffiness/swelling and microcirculation-associated skin appearance.
Important nuance: several human studies used combination gels (escin with other actives such as heparin and salicylates), so the observed outcomes cannot be attributed to escin alone with full certainty.
Product Description:
Escin is an amphiphilic saponin complex; in topical systems it is discussed for anti-inflammatory and anti-edema mechanisms, including modulation of vascular permeability (technical rationale for reducing the appearance of swelling).
Human topical research examples include:
- A double-blind randomized trial in an experimentally induced hematoma model reported improved tenderness to pressure with a 2% escin gel versus placebo (PMID 8255928).
- Acute sports/blunt injury studies reported better pressure-evoked tenderness outcomes for gels containing escin (1–2%) in combination with other actives versus placebo (PMID 12055112; PMID 11531036).
- In chronic venous insufficiency/venous hypertension, topical gels containing escin with essential phospholipids reported significant improvements in microcirculation-related measures after 2 weeks (PMID 15156249; PMID 15156250).
| Human System |
Endpoints Reported |
Cosmetic Relevance |
| Experimental hematoma model (topical gel) |
Tenderness to pressure (2% escin gel vs placebo) |
Support the look/feel of impact-related skin discomfort |
| Blunt impact injuries (combination gels) |
Pressure-evoked tenderness; time to symptom relief |
Rationale for post-activity body gels; interpret as combination evidence |
| Venous insufficiency/venous hypertension (combination gels) |
Microcirculation markers (e.g., laser-Doppler skin flux; transcutaneous PO₂) |
Rationale for leg-care products targeting microcirculation-associated appearance |
Usage: Leave-on gels/serums/creams and body-care formulas for the appearance of puffiness/swelling and microcirculation-associated skin appearance (e.g., leg-care gels, post-activity body gels).
Mixing method:
- Pre-disperse in propylene glycol, butylene glycol, or ethoxydiglycol, then add to the formula during cool-down.
- Alternatively dissolve/solubilize in a suitable hydroalcoholic phase or with a nonionic solubilizer system; expect possible opalescence depending on system and electrolyte load.
- Add below 40°C and formulate within a skin-compatible pH range; avoid extreme pH to reduce degradation risk.
Usage rate: 0.1–2%
With ≥98% assay, 0.1–2% of this material delivers approximately 0.098–1.96% escin.
Product characteristics: Off-white to pale yellow powder; faint characteristic odor.
Solubility: Limited solubility in pure water; better solubility/dispersibility in glycols and hydroalcoholic systems and can be solubilized with nonionic surfactants. Optimize with your base and check clarity/stability.
Storage: Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place and protect from moisture.
