Pure-Sarsasapogenin is a pure (>98% Purity), lipophilic cosmetic active based on the steroidal sapogenin sarsasapogenin, designed for "cosmetic lipofilling" and structural anti‑wrinkle care in the face.
Sarsasapogenin is the core active component in Volufiline (which is Oil Soluble Component of Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract).
Through a deductive analysis of Sederma’s technical data sheets, efficacy protocols, and patent disclosures (specifically WO 2008/015639), this report concludes that the concentration of sarsasapogenin in the undiluted Volufiline™ raw material is standardized to approximately 1.0 millimolar (1 mM). When converted to mass concentration within the excipient vector (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene), this equates to approximately 500 parts per million (ppm), or 0.05% by weight.
In typical cosmetic usage, 3–5% of a Volufiline™‑type raw material containing ~500 ppm (0.05%) sarsasapogenin supplies only about 0.0015–0.0025% pure sarsasapogenin in the finished formula (3% × 0.05% to 5% × 0.05%). By contrast, 0.01% Pure‑Sarsasapogenin delivers 0.01% sarsasapogenin—roughly 4–7 times more active on‑skin for the same application volume.
ฺThis product is still under active patent by Sederma - Please carefully check the current patent status on your country before formulating:
| Country / Office |
Patent No. |
Status |
Expected expiry |
| France |
FR2904549B1 |
Active |
2026‑08‑03 (Google Patents) |
| Europe (EP) |
EP2046283B1 |
Active |
2027‑07‑31 (anticipated) (Google Patents) |
| Japan |
JP5462624B2 |
Active |
2027‑07‑31 (anticipated) (Google Patents) |
| Germany |
DE602007013240D1 |
Active |
2027‑08‑01 (anticipated) (Google Patents) |
| United States |
US8361516B2 |
Active |
2029‑06‑16 (adjusted expiration) (Google Patents) |
Instead of acting only on the epidermis/dermis texture, sarsasapogenin targets the hypodermal adipose layer. By modulating PPARγ‑driven adipogenesis it helps rebuild subcutaneous volume in volume‑deficit areas (tear troughs, nasolabial folds, gaunt cheeks), complementing classic dermal remodelers such as retinoids.
Chemically it is a spirostanol sapogenin (C27H44O3, MW 416.64) obtained from Anemarrhena asphodeloides roots. The highly lipophilic, steroid‑like backbone supports skin penetration through lipid domains and preferential partitioning into adipose tissue, making it suitable for oil‑rich and emulsion systems targeted at structural rejuvenation.
Product Description: Sarsasapogenin is a phytosterol‑type sapogenin purified from the traditional Chinese herb Anemarrhena asphodeloides. In adipocyte models it behaves as a functional PPARγ agonist/modulator, driving differentiation of pre‑adipocytes and strong triglyceride accumulation. This underpins the "cosmetic lipofilling" concept: local expansion of subcutaneous fat pads to support overlying skin and soften deep, static folds associated with facial deflation.
At the mechanistic level sarsasapogenin promotes both adipocyte hyperplasia (more cells) and hypertrophy (larger lipid droplets). In vitro 3T3‑L1 experiments report up to ~22‑fold increases in lipid volume under optimized conditions, alongside up‑regulation of PPARγ target genes such as FABP4, LPL, adiponectin and perilipin. In vivo, a 5% sarsasapogenin‑standardized root extract applied to the breast region produced average volume gains of ~2.2% (best responders ~8.4%) over 56 days, confirming genuine tissue expansion rather than transient swelling.
When these volumetric changes are mapped onto much smaller facial fat pads, the effect can correspond to a meaningful fraction of a dermal filler syringe in carefully selected zones, while remaining non‑injectable and slow‑building. It is therefore best positioned for hollow, atrophic areas rather than generalized "anti‑aging" of the entire face. For lower‑face/jowl areas with gravitational sagging, over‑use of strong lipofilling actives may be counter‑productive.
Compared with classic dermal agents (retinoids, peptides), pure sarsasapogenin offers limited direct fibroblast stimulation and collagen synthesis, but excels in restoring three‑dimensional architecture via adipose remodeling. Optimal protocols combine it with separate dermal remodelers (e.g. retinoids, vitamin C, peptides): sarsasapogenin rebuilds the underlying volume scaffold, while the companion actives refine texture, tone and superficial lines.
| Model/System |
Key Endpoints |
Implication |
| 3T3‑L1 adipocytes |
PPARγ activation, ↑ adipogenesis, up to ~22× lipid volume, ↑ FABP4/LPL/adiponectin/perilipin |
Strong adipogenic/lipofilling potential |
| Topical breast volume study (5% root extract) |
Average +2.2% breast volume, best responders ~8.4% over 56 days |
Clinically measurable structural volume gain |
| Metabolic/anti‑inflammatory models |
Improved insulin sensitivity; reduced adipose inflammation vs. controls |
Supports local remodeling with favorable safety profile |
Formulators should treat pure sarsasapogenin as a high‑impact structural active. Apply it selectively to volume‑deficit zones (peri‑orbital hollows, midface, nasolabial/marionette support) and avoid aggressive levels in sag‑prone lower‑face regions. Location‑specific application and conservative dosing help maximize aesthetic benefit while minimizing any risk of unwanted puffiness.
Usage: Volumizing and structural anti‑wrinkle care in facial serums, eye creams, contour creams, and targeted treatment concentrates where loss of subcutaneous support is a key driver of aging.
Mixing method:
- Disperse into the oil phase or a suitable emollient (e.g. esters, hydrogenated polyisobutene, non‑polar oils) before emulsion, or pre‑solubilize into a lipid carrier to make a pourable concentrate.
- For emulsions, add the sarsasapogenin phase in cool‑down (<40°C) while maintaining sufficient emulsifier and solvent capacity; avoid high water activity pockets that may crystallize the active.
- In anhydrous oils/balms, ensure full dispersion and homogeneity; combine with antioxidants as appropriate to protect any co‑actives and carrier lipids.
Usage rate: 0.01%
As a 100% active, on‑skin delivered sarsasapogenin equals the use level. For most targeted facial and eye‑area products, a single in‑formula recommendation of 0.01% is sufficient and already represents a strong structural dose when combined with supportive actives and an appropriate delivery vehicle.
Product characteristics: White to off‑white crystalline powder; low odor; highly lipophilic steroidal sapogenin.
Solubility: Practically insoluble in water; readily soluble or dispersible in non‑polar and many medium‑polarity cosmetic oils and emollients; best used via an oil or microemulsion carrier system.
[Preservative‑free active; final product preservation depends on the chosen vehicle and formulation system]
