“No direct peer-reviewed skin-benefit evidence found for Oil Stick™ Hard; closest evidence supports oil/wax-based occlusive films reducing transepidermal water loss and improving barrier recovery.”
Oil Stick™ Hard (provides hard oil)
Cosmetics
Code: 1345
A thickening agent for oils and silicones, suitable for use in lipsticks (high concentration 3-4%), lip glosses (low concentration, no more than 1%), and deodorants (high concentration 3-4%). When used in conjunction with Oil Stick™ Medium , it can produce a clear texture.
Oil Stick™ Hard (solidifies oil) is a stick-forming agent for oils and silicones. It's suitable for use in lipsticks (high concentrations: 3-4%), lip glosses (low concentrations: no more than 1%), and deodorants (high concentrations: 3-4%). When used in conjunction with Oil Stick™ Medium , it can produce a clear texture.
Example of a sheer lip tint recipe (use Oil Stick™ Hard with Oil Stick™ Medium to create a sheer effect).
Octyldodecanol 20% (helps increase the pay-off of the lipstick, allowing it to adhere to the lips).
LipidSoft™ Disperse 17% (Helps dissolve/disperse the pigment powder so it adheres to the lip surface.)
Any oil-soluble pigment ___ % (use in the ratio according to the desired color tone)
The remaining squalene should reach 100% (to give the lip product a glossy finish).
Example lip gloss recipe (use Oil Stick™ Hard at a low level to create a gel-like texture).
Oil Stick™ Hard 0.3%
Octyldodecanol 5% (helps increase the pay-off of the lipstick, allowing it to adhere to the lips).
LipidSoft™ Moist 35% (Moisturizes lips)
LipidSoft™ Disperse 10% (helps dissolve/disperse pigment powder for better adhesion to the lips)
Any oil-soluble pigment ___ % (use in the ratio according to the desired color tone)
Squalene The remaining amount should complete 100% (to give the lip product a glossy finish).
How to use Oil Stick™ Hard, Oil Stick™ Medium
Oil Stick™ dissolves in oil without stirring or blending, but requires high heat for dissolution. The dissolution temperature varies depending on the type of oil.
Cyclomethicone , Isododecane , Isohexadecane , or LipidSoft are non-polar compounds that dissolve at 105-120 degrees Celsius.
Dimethicone , polar LipidSoft (e.g., LipidSoft™ Disperse ), and Octyldodecanol dissolve at 85-95 degrees Celsius.
To make the oil clearer.
The ratio between Oil Stick™ Hard and Oil Stick™ Medium affects the clarity of the oil. This ratio depends on the type of oil.
For Mineral Oil - Oil Stick™ Medium 75% : Oil Stick™ Hard 25% to Oil Stick™ Medium 60% : Oil Stick™ Hard 40% will provide the greatest clarity.
For other types of oil, try starting with the same ratio: Oil Stick™ Medium 50% : If Oil Stick™ Hard 50% is still not clear, increase or decrease the ratio and experiment until you find that it becomes clearer.
The differences between various types of oil gelling agents (oil gellants).
- Sugar Gel provides an oil-based gel texture that is soft and clear. It requires at least 10% water in the formula. Suitable for gel formulas that can tolerate a small amount of water. Not suitable for use with silicone.
- Oil Thick™ Soft provides an oil-based gel texture that is soft and translucent (not 100% clear), suitable for cream formulations and can be used with silicone.
- Oil Thick™ Hard provides an oil-based gel texture that is semi-solid and translucent (not 100% clear). It's ideal for balm and pressed powder formulations, offering a semi-solid finish and is compatible with silicones.
- Oil Stick™ Medium provides an oil-based gel texture that ranges from firm (1-2%) to very firm (4%). It can result in a clear finish and is suitable for stick formulations such as lipsticks and deodorant sticks (should be used in conjunction with Oil Stick™ Hard for a clear finish). It can also be used with silicone (but will not produce a clear finish).
- Oil Stick™ Hard The oil gel has a firm texture (1-2%) to very firm (4%). Provides a clear texture, suitable for stick formulations such as lipsticks and deodorants (should be used in conjunction with Oil Stick™ Hard for a clear finish). Can be used with silicone (but it won't produce a transparent finish).
- Oil Thick™ Clear S , Oil Thick™ Clear N and Oil Thick™ Clear P provide a clear oil gel consistency with almost all types of oils, and LipidSoft™ is easy to use. Not suitable for use with silicone.
- Oil-Fix™ O provides a clear oil texture. For all polar oils and all glycols.
- Oil-Fix™ S provides a clear oil base for all types of silicone and non-polar oils.
- Oil-Fix™ W provides a clear oil base for all types of oils, both polar and non-polar.
Uses: As a gelling agent in any formulation.
Mixing instructions: Mix in any oil or hydrocarbon ( isododecane , isohexadecane ) or LipidSoft™ using heat of 85-120 degrees Celsius, depending on the type of oil (please see more information above).
Usage rate: 0.1-4% depending on the desired oil consistency.
Product characteristics: White to light yellow powder.
Solubility: Soluble in oil or silicone.
INCI Name : Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide
Example recipes using Oil Stick™ Hard and Oil Stick™ Medium. To make the oil clear.
Clarins Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm
Milk Makeup Hydrating Oil Stick
Meltdown Makeup Remover Lip Oil Stick - Urban Decay
- Room (25-40C)
- 120 Months from manufacturing or testing date.
- 0.10% - 4.00%
- 0.00%
- Add into oil phase. Heat tolerant.
- Heat Tolerant
- 0.00 - 0.00
- Soluble in Oil, Soluble/Miscible in silicone
- Lip, Deodorant
- -
| Test Name | Specification |
|---|---|
| Description | White to pale yellow powder |
| Odor | Slightly characteristics odor |
| Identification: IR Spectrophotometry | Passed Test |
| Melting Point (C) | 183-196 |
| Heavy Metals (Pb) | NMT 10ppm |
| Arsenic (As2O3) | NMT 1ppm |
| Water Content | NMT 0.5% |
| Residue on Ignition | NMT 1.0% |
| Content | 95-105% |
“Ingredient-family evidence: topical occlusive emollients can improve dry-skin barrier function by reducing water loss from the stratum corneum.”
“Ingredient-family evidence: lip care sticks/balms based on waxes and oils can increase lip hydration and reduce dryness symptoms through film-forming/occlusive effects.”
“Ingredient-family evidence: oleogel/lipid-gel vehicles are studied as topical delivery and skin-contact systems; benefit is mainly vehicle-based residence, spreadability, and occlusive/emollient performance, not proven activity of Oil Stick™ Hard itself.”
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