ActiveRelease™ Ester-C (Ascorbyl Palmitate Water Dispersible) is a water-dispersible active-release complex of ascorbyl palmitate for antioxidant, brightening and photoaging-support skincare.

Ascorbyl palmitate is a lipophilic vitamin C ester. It is normally more compatible with oil phases than water-rich formulas, so this ActiveRelease™ format is designed to help formulators use the ingredient in serums, gels, toners, lotions, creams and masks where a conventional oil-soluble ester would be difficult to disperse.

This product should be positioned as delivered ascorbyl palmitate in a water-dispersible carrier, not as free L-ascorbic acid. Use it for antioxidant-support and Vitamin C ester concepts where lower color, easier aqueous processing and milder pH flexibility are preferred over very-low-pH L-ascorbic acid systems.

Product Description: The active target is ascorbyl palmitate, supported by a water-dispersible cyclodextrin-based carrier. The carrier improves formulation handling and dispersion; it does not change the evidence standard that finished-product performance depends on active level, pH, oxygen/light exposure, packaging and the rest of the antioxidant system.

Topical vitamin C literature supports antioxidant, photoprotection-support, antiaging, pigmentation-support and collagen-related roles, but the strongest human clinical data are mainly for L-ascorbic acid or mixed vitamin C derivative systems. For ascorbyl palmitate specifically, delivery research shows that carrier design can materially affect how much active reaches the stratum corneum. Liposomal and lipogel studies on ascorbyl palmitate support the idea that structured delivery systems can improve skin deposition compared with simple non-encapsulated formats. A separate UVB keratinocyte study also shows why formulators should not treat ascorbyl palmitate as an SPF active by itself; antioxidant positioning should be validated in the final formula and paired with sunscreen when used for daytime skincare.

INCI: Cyclodextrin, Ascorbyl Palmitate.

Usage: Suitable for antioxidant serums, brightening gels, toner/essence products, gel creams, lotions, creams, masks and water-rich Vitamin C ester concepts. For daytime formulas, pair with a tested sunscreen system and do not claim SPF contribution unless the finished product has been tested.

Mixing method:

- Pre-disperse in a small portion of water, water/glycol phase or finished base before adding to the main batch.

- Add during cool-down, preferably below 45°C. Avoid prolonged heating, strong oxidizing systems, excess air incorporation and long open-vessel hold time.

- Recommended finished-formula pH: 4.0–7.5. The practical preferred range for most serums, gels and emulsions is pH 5.0–6.8.

- Finished formulas may be translucent, opalescent or slightly hazy depending on polymer, electrolyte, surfactant and active level. Confirm clarity and sedimentation in clear toner/gel systems.

- Use opaque or airless packaging when the formula is positioned around Vitamin C antioxidant performance.

Usage rate: 0.5–3.0%

Use 0.5–3.0% of this active-release complex (delivers approximately 0.1–0.6% ascorbyl palmitate). Typical starting point: 1.5% product delivers approximately 0.3% active.

Product characteristics: White to light yellow fine powder; characteristic mild odor.

Solubility: Dispersible in water and water/glycol systems. The underlying ascorbyl palmitate active is lipophilic; this product format enables aqueous dispersion.

Storage: Store tightly closed at 15–25°C, protected from light, heat, air and moisture.