Squalane (Sugarcane)
Modern “third-generation” squalane is produced by bio-fermenting Brazilian sugar-cane sucrose with engineered yeast, yielding a highly pure, colourless emollient from a renewable raw material instead of shark liver or olive waste. This route offers consistent quality, protected supply, and a lower sustainability burden.
Modern “third-generation” squalane is produced by bio-fermenting Brazilian sugar-cane sucrose with engineered yeast, yielding a highly pure, colourless emollient from a renewable raw material instead of shark liver or olive waste. This route offers consistent quality, protected supply, and a lower sustainability burden.
Documented topical benefits
| Benefit | Evidence | Practical take-away |
|---|---|---|
| Fast, long-lasting hydration & barrier support | Clinical panel (5 % sugarcane squalane facial serum) showed +51 % skin hydration immediately and –13.9 % TEWL over 24 h; NAD accepted these data as adequate substantiation. | Locks-in moisture without occlusion; ideal for dehydrated, sensitive or post-procedure skin. |
| Biomimetic & non-comedogenic | Structure mimics skin sebum, absorbs rapidly, leaves no greasy residue; supplier sensory data label it “non-comedogenic.” | Suitable for oily/acne-prone complexions and beard areas. |
| Photo-protection & anti-ageing | 0.005 – 0.015 % squalane protected UVA-irradiated dermal fibroblasts: rescued collagen synthesis, reduced inflammation, accelerated wound closure. | Adds passive defence against photo-induced ageing; pairs well with UV filters or antioxidants. |
| Enhanced delivery of actives | In-house study showed squalane drove actives “40× deeper” into the epidermis compared with water-based vehicle. | Acts as a “carrier oil” to improve uptake of retinoids, HA-bound actives, CBD, etc. |
| Hair-care performance | Improves wet & dry combing, boosts shine and reduces frizz better than argan oil in leave-on oils and conditioners. | Plant-based substitute for silicones or mineral oils in clean hair-care lines. |
Formulation & application guide
| Product type | Typical dose | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight facial serum / oil | 5 – 15 % | Primary emollient, slip agent, delivery booster |
| Cream/ lotion | 1 – 10 % (oil phase) | Co-emollient, barrier support, sensorial improvement |
| Balm / stick / water-free mask | 10 – 35 % | Spreading agent, improves payoff & melt point |
| Sun-care dispersion | 2 – 8 % | Solubilises avobenzone, boosts spreadability |
| Hair oil / anti-frizz serum | 5 – 50 % | Lightweight silicone alternative |
| Cleansing oil / balm | up to 100 % (with surfactant) | Non-greasy make-up remover |
Formulator’s cheat-sheet
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Barrier-repair cream (O/W)
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5 % Squalane, 3 % Ceramide complex, 2 % Niacinamide → 48 h TEWL reduction & velvety after-feel.
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Waterless solid serum stick
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25 % Squalane, 20 % Shea butter, 1 % Bakuchiol → self-emulsifies on skin for mess-free travel care.
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Blue-light day oil
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70 % Squalane, 10 % Hemi-squalane (fast-dry), 2 % micro-algae carotenoids → lightweight protective veil for screen users.
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Squalane oil is very stable. And is at least 36 months from the date of manufacture
INCI Name: Squalane
- Room (25-40C)
- 24 Months from manufacturing or testing date.
- 0.10% - 100.00%
- 0.00%
- Add at last step. Avoid temperature above 40C.
- Avoid heat above 60C
- 0.00 - 0.00
- Soluble in Oil
- Cream, Lotion, Serum
- -
| Test Name | Specification |
|---|---|
| Appearance | Colorless clear oily liquid almost odorless and tasteless |
| Iodine Value | 0.5 MAX. |
| Acid Value | 0.1 MAX. |
| Saponification Value | 0.1 MAX. |
| Refractive Index | 1.451 - 1.453 (at 20°C) |
| Specific Gravity | 0.807 - 0.810 (at 20°C) |
| Purity | 99% Min |
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