Enhanced transdermal penetration of co-administered actives, Increased scalp microcirculation in androgenetic alopecia

Potent vasodilation and enhanced microcirculation

Hexyl nicotinate induces local vasodilation via activation of endothelial nicotinic acid receptors, leading to dose-dependent increases in cutaneous blood flow measured by laser Doppler velocimetry (Dowd et al., 1987; Bunker et al., 1988).

Enhanced transdermal penetration of co-administered actives

Its six-carbon ester chain confers superior skin permeation and dermal retention compared to shorter-chain nicotinates. Müller et al. (2003) showed that among nicotinic acid esters, hexyl nicotinate achieved the highest dermal concentration, correlating with an amplified vasodilatory response.

Increased scalp microcirculation in androgenetic alopecia

In men with androgenetic alopecia, epicutaneous application of 0.1% hexyl nicotinate on balding scalp areas elicited a significant rise in scalp blood flow—measured by laser Doppler flowmetry—suggesting improved follicular perfusion (Bunker & Dowd, 1987).

Support of hair-growth interventions through improved follicular nutrition

A six-month, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial found that a cosmetic foam containing nicotinic acid hexyl ester (along with polyphenols, zinc, glycine, and caffeine) significantly reduced telogen hair rate compared to vehicle control, indicating enhanced follicular health and hair retention (Welzel et al., 2022).

References

Dowd P M, Whitefield M, Greaves M W. Hexyl-nicotinate-induced vasodilation in normal human skin. Dermatologica. 1987;174(5):239–243.

Bunker C B, Lanigan S, Rustin M H, Dowd P M. The effects of topically applied hexyl nicotinate lotion on the cutaneous blood flow in patients with Raynaud’s phenomenon. Br J Dermatol. 1988;119(6):771–776.

Müller B, Kasper M, Surber C, Imanidis G. Permeation, metabolism and site of action concentration of nicotinic acid derivatives in human skin: correlation with topical pharmacological effect. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2003;20(2):181–195.

Bunker C B, Dowd P M. Alterations in scalp blood flow after the epicutaneous application of 3% minoxidil and 0.1% hexyl nicotinate in alopecia. Br J Dermatol. 1987;117(5):668–669.

Welzel J, Wolff H H, Gehring W. Reduction of telogen rate and increase of hair density in androgenetic alopecia by a cosmetic product: results of a randomized, prospective, vehicle-controlled double-blind study in men. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Mar;21(3):1057–1064.

Solubility:

MCT Oil

Isopropyl Myristate

Other polar esters

Usage: Can be used in all types of Anti-Aging or hair-loss prevention products, such as in the form of gels, serums, lotions, or creams.

Mixing method: Heat 70C in oil phase to dissolve

Usage rate: 0.1-1%

Product appearance: Light color liquid

Solubility: Can dissolve in oil, polar solvents

Storage: Store in the refrigerator at 4 °C -8 °C. 24 months shelf life.

INCI Name : Hexyl Nicotinate