Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Cosmetics
Code: 1271
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate caused by the process Esterification between Stearyl Alcohol and Glycyrrhetinic Acid, which helps process Glycyrrhetinic Acid, an extract from Licorice, has the advantage of reducing irritation. Keep it in a form that can easily dissolve in oil.
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is an ester derivative of glycyrrhetinic acid (a key bioactive component of licorice root) that’s widely used in topical skincare formulations. Its benefits arise from a combination of anti‐inflammatory, soothing, antioxidant, and skin barrier–enhancing properties. Below is an overview of its mechanisms and research-supported benefits.
Mechanism of Action
• Anti‐inflammatory Activity:
Stearyl glycyrrhetinate helps modulate inflammatory pathways by inhibiting enzymes (like phospholipase A₂) and reducing pro‐inflammatory cytokines (e.g., TNF‑α, IL‑6), which can lessen redness and swelling.
• Antioxidant Effects:
It also exhibits antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize free radicals and protect skin cells from oxidative stress—a benefit that supports healthy, resilient skin.
Topical Benefits
• Soothing and Calming:
By reducing inflammation, stearyl glycyrrhetinate calms irritated or sensitive skin. This makes it a popular ingredient in formulations designed for conditions such as atopic dermatitis or mild irritations.
• Enhanced Skin Barrier Function:
Its ability to mitigate inflammatory damage and oxidative stress also supports the restoration and maintenance of the skin’s barrier, helping to lock in moisture and protect against environmental aggressors.
Research Evidence
• In Vitro and In Vivo Studies:
Multiple studies have demonstrated that glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives decrease the production of inflammatory mediators in skin cells. These findings suggest that their topical application can reduce symptoms associated with inflammatory skin conditions.
• Clinical Observations:
Clinical evaluations have noted improvements in redness and irritation in patients using formulations containing glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives. Such studies support its use as a soothing and protective agent in dermatological products.
How to mix: Mix in the oil. Can melt at room temperature But if you use heat of 40-50 degrees to help dissolve it, it will dissolve easily and faster.
Usage rate: 0.1-1.5%
Product appearance: White or light yellow powder
Solubility: Can be dissolved in oil.
INCI Name : Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Examples of products using Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
CLINIQUE Acne Solutions BB Cream
Perricone MD Hypoallergenic Nourishing Moisturizer
LANEIGE White Plus Renew Original Essence
SHISEIDO BIO-PERFORMANCE ADVANCED SUPER REVITALIZING CREAM 24H
- Fridge (1-10C)
- 60 Months from manufacturing or testing date.
- 0.50% - 1.50%
- 1.00%
- Add into oil phase. Heat tolerant.
- Avoid heat above 80C
- 3.00 - 7.00
- Soluble in Oil
- Cream, Lotion, Mask
- -
| Test Name | Specification |
|---|---|
| Description | White or yellow and white powder crystal, odorless |
| Identification | Should be positive |
| Solubility | Colorless transparent liquid |
| Glycyrrhizic acid | Red liquid |
| Sulfate | Not more than 0.15% |
| Chloride | Not more than 0.05% |
| Heavy metals | Not more than 20ppm |
| Arsenic salt | Not more than 2ppm |
| Melting point | 70.0°C～77.0°C |
| Loss on drying | Not more than 1.0% |
| Sulphated ash | Not more than 0.10% |
| Assay UV | Between 95.0% to 102.0% of C46H82O4 |
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